Saturday

Chopper Basics:

A Simple Look At How Choppers Work...


If you want to learn how to build a chopper from start to finish and study all the fine detials involved in every step of the process, this article is not for you. It's simply too large a subject to discuss in one simple Blog. But if you want to learn the basics of how a chopper is built, and how each of the parts work, you may find this Blog extremely informative. This Blog is probably best for the novice chopper enthusiast who wants to take the fist step in learning how to build a chopper.If you want to add in any additional information, please contact us and we may include it in this Blog. We would love to expand on this and make an advanced presentation. And with your help on Motorcycle diary we can accomplish this together.

Chopper Basics: The FRAME

The most important step in learning how to build a chopper is understanding the frame. The frame is one of the most important components on a motorcycle, especially on a large motorcycle. The frame must be designed strong enough and built rigid enough to:
Manage the power and torque created by your power train and maintain its alignment during the full range of acceleration/deceleration.
Maintain wheel alignment during extreme braking and hard cornering, as well as while riding over rough surfaces.
Provide a solid mounting surface and pivot points for the front and rear suspension.
Effectively support the weight of the motorcycle itself as well as the rider, a passenger, and travel gear.

Frame Construction

The frame is made from high-strength seamless steel tubing and utilizes a high tensile strength welding process to extremely tight tolerances.

Chopper Basics:
Types of Frames:

1) Hidden Shock Frame




A) Steering Head
B) Frame
C) Rear Forks and Pivot Shafts
D) Shock Absorbers

2) Rubber Mount Frame




A) Steering Head
B) Frame
C) Rear Forks and Pivot Shafts
D) Shock Absorbers

3) Rigid Frame




A) Steering Head
B) Frame



Chopper Basics: The SUSPENSION SYSTEM (Front & Rear)

In learning how to build a chopper beyond frame design, the suspension system is the chief ingredient in determining the handling capability of a motorcycle. The suspension system is responsible for keeping the wheels on the ground and absorbing the shock as the motorcycle passes over uneven surfaces in the road. Both the front suspension (telescoping front forks) and the rear suspension (rear swing arm and shock absorbers) operate by compressing and extending as the motorcycle passes over a bump, absorbing the shock of the bump to keep the motorcycle stable. The front and rear suspension utilize springs for the up and down compression and extension, and suspension dampers to stabilize the up and down movement. Without the suspension dampers, the springs in the suspension system would continue to bounce up and down after each bump creating a “rocking horse” effect.

FRONT SUSPENSION

Motorcycles use two types of telescopic front fork assemblies: conventional and inverted. Each assembly consists of two fork tubes which contain springs, spring dampers and oil. The fork legs slide on the fork tubes. The tube or leg extends and compresses within itself as a shock absorber. The two types differ in these ways. On the conventional type, the fork tubes are captured by the triple clamp positioning the fork leg at the bottom of the assembly. The inverted type was developed on racing motorcycles to place the heaviest and strongest part, the fork leg itself, in the triple clamp - thus inverting the assembly. This design gives more rigidity to the fork, reducing fork tube flex and lessens the unsprung weight, improving suspension response. The triple clamps (trees) and fork stem hold the front fork tubes to the frame and keep the tubes aligned. The fork stem is an integral part of the triple tree and fits through the steering head allowing the forks to be turned to the right and left.

Inverted Fork Suspension Conventional Fork Suspension

A) Triple Clamps and Fork Stem
B) Fork Legs
C) Fork Tubes

REAR SUSPENSION

There are two types of rear suspension exposed shock absorbers and hidden shock absorbers. The rear fork is attached to the frame with the pivot shaft. The arms of the rear fork (often called the swing arm) hold the rear wheel and keep it aligned. The rear shock absorbers mount to the rear forks and the back struts of the motorcycle. The ability of motorcycle to handle effectively while cornering, breaking, etc. depends in part on the suspension system having the right amount of “controlled flexibility.” Over time or under certain conditions if your suspension seems too rigid or too spongy, it may need servicing or adjustment.
Chopper Basics: The POWERTRAIN



The power train is composed of:

A. V-Twin, 107 cubic-inch, four stroke engine
B. Chain driven primary drive
C. 5-Speed transmission or 6-Speed transmission
D. Belt driven final drive down.
Chopper Basics: How the Engine Works

In learning how to build a chopper, you have to have a thorough understanding of the engine. A fourstroke engine means that each piston moves four times (strokes) for the engine to complete one full cycle.
Four Strokes of engine are:

Intake Stroke -The piston moves down while the intake valve is open, pulling the air/fuel mixture into the cylinder.

Compression Stroke - The piston moves upward pressurizing the air/fuel mixture. Power Stroke - As the spark plug ignites the compressed air/fuel mixture, the combustion pushes the piston back down.

Exhaust Stroke - With the exhaust valve open the piston moves upward again, pushing the burned gases out of the cylinder. The valves opening & closing, the pistons cycling at 3,000 to 5,000 revolutions per minute (at normal operating speeds), the spark plugs firing all occurring in the proper timing is what it takes to keep your motorcycle down the road.

PRIMARY DRIVE: The purpose of the primary drive is to deliver power from the engine to the gear box. The primary, or initial drive, on your motorcycle is composed of a primary drive chain which runs from the crankshaft in the engine to the clutch in the gear box. The power from the engine to the gear box is engaged and disengaged by the clutch.

TRANSMISSION (GEAR BOX): The transmission or gear box connects the primary drive to the final drive with a set of shafts and different size gears. Engaging the different size gears in the gear box allows for a wide variety of rear wheel speeds, while allowing the engine to operate "comfortably" within its range of normal operating speeds. Smaller gears provide more torque while larger gears provide more speed. This pairing of different size gears is called “gear ratio” or “gear reduction”. The gear ratio or reduction in your Big Dog power train begins with the primary drive, increases in the gear box and culminates with the final drive.

FINAL DRIVE: The final drive, is the last link in the power train and connects the gear box to the rear wheel.
Chopper Basics: The BRAKING SYSTEM



The front brake is a hydraulic disc type, which is operated by the hand lever on the right handle bar.
It is composed of:
A. Front disc rotor
B. 4-piston caliper
C. Braided stainless steel lines
D. 5/8" bore master cylinder and fluid reservoir
The rear brake is a hydraulic disc type which is operated by the pedal on the right foot rest. It is composed of:
E. Rear disc rotor
F. 4 piston caliper
G. Braided stainless steel lines
H. 5/8" bore master cylinder and fluid reservoir

How the Braking System Works

The braking system is designed so that the front brake should supply 75% of the braking power or your motorcycle. It should be used as the primary brake while using the rear brake as secondary.
FOR NORMAL BRAKING: Apply both the rear and front brakes while down shifting to match your road speed.
FOR MAXIMUM BRAKING: Close the throttle and firmly apply both rear and front brakes; then pull in the clutch lever before coming to a complete stop to prevent the engine from stalling.
Chopper Basics: The CLUTCH SYSTEM



A. Clutch hand lever
B. Clutch cable
C. Clutch assembly

The clutch assembly is positioned between the
primary drive chain and the gearbox, and provides a way to connect and disconnect the primary drive (power transmitted from the engine) and the gearbox. The clutch assembly is disengaged by pulling the clutch hand lever in against the handlebar grip; it is engaged by releasing the lever. When the engine is running, the primary drive is spinning. As the clutch is engaged (the hand lever released) the power from the engine is transferred to the gearbox and the rear wheel. When the clutch is disengaged (the hand lever pulled closed) the gearbox does not receive power from the engine.

THE CLUTCH ASSEMBLY: Simply put, the clutch assembly is composed of round discs called “clutch plates” which are contained inside a clutch housing (often called the clutch basket). These plates are pushed together by spring tension. When pushed together, friction between the plates causes them to bind or couple together which provides the link to transfer power from the engine, through the clutch, to the gearbox.

CLUTCH HAND LEVER & CABLE When the clutch hand lever is pulled, the clutch cable acts against (or relieves) the spring tension within the clutch assembly to release the friction grip inside the clutch. As the clutch plates separate from each other and slip, this de-couples the gearbox from the engine. The clutch assembly is a mechanical wet clutch. Mechanical means that it does not operate by hydraulic pressure. A wet clutch means that the clutch assembly operates immersed in an oil bath. This not only helps to keep the clutch assembly cool, but also washes away loosened friction material from the clutch plates, keeping the surfaces clean and free of debris.
Chopper Basics: The ELECTRICAL SYSTEM



The electrical system provides power for your motorcycle. It is powered by a high cranking, long -life, 12-volt battery.
The electrical system can be divided into five sub systems:

1. STARTING SYSTEM
A. Battery
B. Start switch - Not Shown
C. Solenoid (Relay)
D. Starting motor (Starter)

2. CHARGING SYSTEM
E. Alternator
F. Voltage regulator A. Battery

3. IGNITION SYSTEM
G. Ignition switch and ignition coil
H. Kill switch - Not Shown
I. Electronic Control Unit
J. Spark plugs - Not Shown

4. ACCESSORY SYSTEM
* Lights
* Horn
* Turn Signals
* Warning Lights
* Other Accessories

5. CIRCUIT BREAKER
Chopper Basics: The FUEL SYSTEM



A. Fuel tank
B. Fuel supply valve
C. Carburetor and air filter
D. Throttle grip & cable
E. Fuel lines

The fuel system on your motorcycle is a gravity flow system, so no fuel pump is required. Although it is a simple system, it must perform the complicated task of blending (or mixing) the fuel and air together in the right proportions and supply this mixture to the engine.

FUEL SUPPLY VALVE: The fuel supply valve (petcock) is a manually operated on/off valve designed to control the fuel flow from the gas tank to the carburetor.




CARBURETOR: The carburetor is the central part as well as the most complex part of the fuel system. Its primary job is it to atomize (break up) the fuel into small droplets, and mix the atomized fuel with the right amount of air. This mixing (or metering) of fuel and air is called the airfuel ratio. It is precisely here (the carburetor’s ability to atomize and properly meter the air-fuel ratio) that performance, as well as fuel efficiency, is won or lost.

CARBURETOR OPERATION: In basic terms (see illustration) as air enters the carburetor, its speed increases passing through the bottleneck in the throat of the carburetor. This increase in air speed creates a vacuum within the carburetor which pulls fuel from the fuel reservoir into the air stream. The fuel is atomized and mixed as it enters the air stream and is then provided to the engine.

THROTTLE GRIP AND CABLE: The throttle grip and cable are connected to the throttle plate or throttle slide inside the carburetor (see illustration). The throttle plate and/or throttle slide controls the flow of air through the carburetor. Opening the throttle allows more air to pass through the carburetor which draws more fuel into the air stream. This results in increased power from the engine.

AIR FILTER: The air filter keeps airborne dirt and debris from entering the throat of the carburetor and passing into the engine.
Chopper Basics: CONTROLS AND DISPLAYS


TURN SIGNAL SWITCHES: Located at the base of each handlebar control group. The right handlebar turn signal switch operates the right front and right rear flashing lamps, and the left handlebar turn signal switch operates the left. To operate the turn signal you must depress and release the turn switch.

Chopper Basics:

Generally your Motorcycle is equipped with two mirrors. Adjust the mirrors to clearly reflect the area behind the motorcycle.

A. SPEEDOMETER/ODOMETER: The speedometer registers miles per hour of forward speed. The odometer registers the number of miles the vehicle has traveled.

B. TURN INDICATOR LIGHTS:The green TURN indicators will flash when turn signals are activated.

C. HIGH BEAM LIGHT: The blue BEAM indicator light, when lit, signals that the headlamp high beam is on.

D. TRANSMISSION NEUTRAL LIGHT: The green NEUTRAL light turns on to indicate when the transmission is in neutral.

E. OIL INDICATOR LIGHT: The red OIL indicator light, when lit, signals that oil is not circulating through the engine. The light will come on when the ignition is turned on prior to starting the engine. With the engine running, this light should be off except possibly at low idle. If the oil pressure indicator light does not go off at speeds above idling, it is usually because of an empty oil tank or diluted oil. In freezing weather the oil feed may clog with ice and sludge, preventing oil circulation.


GEAR SHIFTER: The gear shifter is located on the left side, and is operated with the toe of the left foot. There are five or six forward gears (depending on model) and no reverse. Pushing the lever all the way down (one full stroke) shifts the transmission to the next lower gear, while lifting the lever all the way up (one full stroke) shifts the transmission into the next higher gear. The operator must release the gear shift lever after each gear change to allow the lever to return to its central position before another gear change can be made. The neutral position is between first (low) and second gears. First gear is the last gear position that can be found by pushing the lever full strokes downward. To shift from first gear to neutral, lift the lever half its full stroke.

SIDE STAND: The side stand is located on the left side of the motorcycle and swings outward to support the motorcycle for parking.

BRAKE PEDAL: In this article on how to build a chopper, we are going to end it with the brake pedal. The Brake pedal controls the rear wheel brake and is located on the motorcycle's right side. It is operated by the right foot.

Sunday

Custom Choppers

It seems like custom choppers are all the rage now, especially with the popularity of shows like Orange County Choppers and West Coast Choppers. They crank out some very expensive, very custom choppers for all kinds of clients, including famous ones like Shaq, Goldberg and Kidd Rock.
I have to admit, there’s not too many choppers from those shops that I like. At least none that have been shown on their shows. That said, there are some amazingly beautiful choppers out there.

Saturday

I'm sure you're aware of the martial arts code. "If he's worth his salt, every student earns every nod, bow, and belt with hard work, concentration, blood, and sweat. Kicks fly, fists are furious, and the grasshopper has to walk on rice paper in order to gain knowledge and respect." In the course of this bike build, Brad Kennedy came to comprehend this principle of hard work and broken knuckles leading to understanding.
It began last year when he experienced the ill workings of a bad shop that left him thousands of dollars in the hole and without the ride he requested. He stepped back and vowed that he'd learn the skill of bike building. Brad just had to find a master who could fashion him a bike, while teaching him about what goes into making a custom ride. His search led him to Gordon Chappel of Gordon's Motorcycle Madness in Ventura, California. Gordon's produced custom iron since the '60s when "old school" still referred to a single room building with a blackboard. For months Brad begged and cajoled Gordon to teach him the bike building code, until Gordon finally relented and agreed to take Brad under his knowledgeable wing.
His first lesson? A great bike starts with a terrific plan. Gordon and Brad sat down to design Brad's dream ride. It was the beginning of a team effort wherein Brad described what he wanted and Gordon told him the iron means to realize his vision.
Once planned, it was time to roll up working man's shirt sleeves and execute. Gordon's shop initiated all the work but Brad was constantly on hand to watch, listen, and learn. Over the three-and-a-half months it took to bring the bike to fruition, Brad's knowledge expanded exponentially from "I know what I likei to "I know what I like, how it's done, and why." He learned how the frame's 42-degree neck rake, 5 inches of backbone stretch out and 2 inches down, when combined with the 2-inch-over Goldammer frontend, would give the bike its long lines, keeping it close to the ground. He gained a deeper appreciation for the time, effort, and skill that went into fabricating a rear fender that's a precise fit to a mammoth 280 rear tire, right down to hiding the wires and cables so his machine would look immaculately clean and function reliably.
When all was said and done, Brad, like many other custom bike owners, owned a bike that made him completely happy. But his enjoyment was deepened by the newfound knowledge and experience he'd gained from a builder who was willing and patient enough to share it

Back in 1992, Dave Finn started building custom motorcycles out of his garage. As the years went on, more and more people began asking him to build customs for them. Eventually things got so busy that he decided to open a shop in Tappan, New York, and dubbed it Dave Finn Motorcycles. The shop quickly became known for building good-looking bikes comprised of many one-off components. Of the 20-or-so custom bikes that Dave and his crew would build each year, the majority of them were designed and built for a specific customer.
Last year, a few months before Daytona Bike Week, Dave decided to build a bike for himself. He wanted something that would attract the attention of the chopper enthusiast, but he didn't want to build an extreme chopper with a ton of stretch in the frame and a 20-over frontend. Instead, he wanted a simple bike with clean lines like the old-school choppers from back in the day, but with updated styling.
To get the build started, Dave picked up a Rolling Thunder softail frame with 3 inches of stretch in the downtubes, 2 more added to the backbone, and 38 degrees of rake in the neck. He added suspension to the rear of the bike by bolting a pair of Works Performance shocks to the Rolling Thunder swingarm. Up front, he cleaned things up by not running a front brake, and shaving the caliper and fender mounts off of a 41mm Deuce frontend before he slid it into a set of Accutronix triple-trees.
Dave knew he wanted the old-school spoked-wheel look. He found exactly what he was looking for in a pair of American Wire Wheel's 40-Spoke Radials. The beefy 3/8-inch spokes were bound to catch people's attention. The 21-inch front and 18x5.5-inch rear wheel were both stuffed into Metzeler tires, with the rear wearing a 200. In order to stop his custom machine, Dave installed a GMA drive-side brake/pulley combo to the rear wheel.
While he liked the looks of the old Pan and Shovelhead motors, Dave couldn't resist the temptation to shove a monster motor between the framerails. The powerplant he chose for the project was a 121ci motor comprised of TP Engineering cases and cylinders, S&S flywheels, rods, pistons, an Andrews cam, and Edelbrock heads. Once Dave's crew had the motor assembled and set between the framerails, they added Patrick Racing Dual 42mm Mikuni carbs with V-stacks, and a Crane Hi-4 ignition. In order for the motor to expel spent gasses, Dave fabricated a custom 2-into-1 exhaust with a copper collector at the end. Next, he added a 3-inch Primo beltdrive that he customized by cutting the aluminum center plate between the two pulleys so that it matched the radius of the pulleys. He then finished up the driveline with an Andrews six-speed gearset in a Delkron case and a Barnett hydraulic clutch.
To give the bike the sleek lines he was after, Dave started by fabricating a skinny front fender that hugged the front tire with just barely enough room for speed expansion. Next, he cut the tunnel out of an old Sporty gas tank and welded in a new one so that the tank would sit 2 inches lower on the backbone. He stretched the left side of a horseshoe-style oil tank to match the contour of the frame, then modified a Wernimont rear fender so it would cover the rear tire exactly how he wanted.
Before the bike was taken to the back room for paint, Dave made sure that he had drilled all the holes he needed to run cables and wires internally for a clean look. Satisfied with his work, he took the frame and sheetmetal to his paint booth in the back of the shop to cover it in layer after layer of Seal Gray paint. While Dave was painting, a couple of his guys tore the motor apart so that the heads and cylinders could be sent to Sumax for some black powdercoat. The exhaust was then sent out for a black HPC clay or ceramic coating.
After three-and-a-half months of fabricating and wrenching, it was time to begin the final assembly. A set of dragbars with Eurocomponents 3-inch risers were bolted to the triple-trees. On the ends of the bars, Dave installed a pair of his own handgrips with the right side working his internal throttle assembly and a small mirror bolted to the end of the left. Down below, he added Legends forward controls with a foot clutch incorporated into the left side. After bolting on his custom jockey shift, Dave mounted a CCI headlight to the lower triple-tree and then installed his hidden license/brake light/running light kit inside the tailend of the rear fender. The cool thing about his kit is that when the bike is started, the frame and light assembly swing out from inside the fender, then when the bike is turned off, it retracts back into the fender.
With only a few days left before he had to leave for Daytona, Dave secured the custom seat he made to the frame, then took the bike out for a quick shakedown run. Ready for Daytona beaches, the Finn custom demonstrated old-school simplicity with new-world power and reliability.

What do you do when you have two businesses that you love and have to divide your time between? Rick Fairless is the owner of Strokers Dallas, a full-service motorcycle and aftermarket parts and apparel shop in Dallas. The shop handles all repairs and fab work, including custom paintjobs and full builds. The shop also builds some of the most radical custom bikes to cruise the streets of Texas. Strokers Dallas sells Big Dogs, American IronHorse, and a full line of custom big-twin motorcycles. The shop is very successful and keeps Rick and the whole staff on their toes. All the grease-soaked hours spent keeping the store stocked and bikes moving through the doors, Rickis been missing out on the finer things in life like riding, drinking beer, checking out hot girls, bike shows, drinking beer, wet T-shirt contest, and did I mention drinking beer?
Since everything Rick was missing out on had strong associations with saloons, it only seemed right that he open one.
Rick understood the importance of location, so he built the joint next door to the shop. Now he can spend just as much time in the bar doing what he loves (drinking beer, shooting pool, and drinking beer) as he does in his shop, which is an easy stumbling distance away. Big Dallas has a jamming location that turns into a bike rally every weekend.
Was that enough for Rick? Hell no. One day, while Rick was guarding a barstool at the Icehouse and having a beer, an idea hit him like a pool-cue to the side of the head. If he could build a bike with a bar theme, it would be a damn good way to promote the joint. Rick and Joe iTi were throwing back a few cold ones, tossing around a few ideas. They determined that all the corny beer lines youid overhear in a bar such as ibeauty is in the eye of the beer holderi would somehow find their way onto this bike. It had to have a keg along with a bottle opener. Rick wanted a pool stick as the shifter when he remembered that he had a Rolling Thunder springer at the shop. He could paint the legs like a pool stick and add cue balls to the ends caps. As the beer bottles lined up on the bar, so did the ideas.
After a few hours, a lot of bar napkins, and a few empty beers, the bike concert was ready. The concept was delayed without a brand or sponsor. Then Barry Andrews, a friend of the shop and the beer distributor, mentioned that if they incorporated one of his suppliers, he could get his company to kick in some bones. As Rick looked up from the bar and his dazed vision focused on an empty line of Coors bottles, the idea of the Silver Bullet came easy, but Barry told them that he wanted to see Coors Original used. Silver Bullet was played out. Rick told Barry that he had never built a gold bike before, but it would be cool to see how close to the beer canis color he could get.
Rick started with a frame that was collecting dust in a dark corner of his shop ever since a customer changed his mind. It was placed on the lift, and the magic started. The springer was sand blasted, then sent out to Gary and Sal at Other Side Custom paint to get turned into a set of pool cues. At the same time, Rick started on the sheetmetal. He wanted it to look like beer cans, but no gas tank on the market had that shape. It took no time at all for Rick to wrap some sheetmetal around an oxygen bottle and see that it had the right shape, but the size was too big for the frame. He made two smaller tanks, halving the size so it would hold a decent amount of gas, about 1.2 gallons each. He then mounted them on the backbone side by side. The oil tank was made to look like a small pony keg that was mounted between the downtubes so a mock oil tank that would look like a can of beer could be mounted under the seat as the battery box. With a name like Six Pack, the bike had to have a six-pack on it somewhere, but where?
Rick mounted a small rack to hold a six-pack of tall cans on the front of the bike just under the keg oil bag. He soon found that with heat and rough bumpy roads, the cans were not going to last long. Rick made aluminum cylinders the same size as the tall can, and placed them inside the cans so that they would retain their shape. He added billet caps and pull tabs on the cans, and milled gas caps to look like bottle caps.
The wild paintwork was carefully handled by Other Side Customs. Gary and Sal were given the task of locating all the Coors emblems including the Surgeon Generalis warnings about bikes, babes, and beer. With biker bar trash-talk air-brushed all over bike, it looked just like a rolling can of Coors Original. Itis a damn super-high-dollar way to draw riders to the bar.
So whatis next for Rick? You got it, Speed Vision discovered Strokers and the all-chopper cast out in Dallas put a show together called Texas Hard Tails. It is a lifestyle show all about the shop and the people who run it, and the behind-the-scenes going-ons of both Strokers Ice House and Strokers Dallas shop. Look for the show to air on Speed Vision in February.

Kevin built the hottest line of unassembled custom motorcycles on the market since 1997, but the chrome gods demanded he demonstrate his one-off abilities. "I needed to build an in-your-face, over-the-top, pure radical custom to show the world what I'm capable of," Kevin Alsop, of Big Bear Choppers, said of this radical Knucklehead. He sells between 100 and 130 complete unassembled motor vehicles a month.
"I went after all the government agencies to ensure our customers receive a motorcycle with complete VIN numbers (unassembled MSO), not individual component MSOs, so they aren't forced to register Big Bear Bikes as special construction." Each model is equipped with EPA-approved exhausts, venting canisters, DOT-tested brakes, and vented gas tanks, as approved by the California Air Resources board. Each vehicle carries the required certifications. "Ultimately, the complete motor vehicle VIN number affords buyers more available financing, insurance, and registration ease."
"But that's not what sells these bikes," Kevin pointed out. "It's the style, quality components, and parts that match the design. I sell 50 percent direct and 50 percent are sold by Custom Chrome through its dealer network."
Kevin dropped into California from an Australian flight in 1989. By 1994, according to his wife, Mona, "He had a desk job, a business card, and wore a tie." The next thing she knew, he dropped the business garb for a three-piece patch and became a full-time biker. In 1997, Mona and Kevin were married and escaped big-city society into the small mountain community of Big Bear, California, where they kicked off Big Bear Choppers. It's been non-stop ever since.
"I fight the personal conflict between being an artist/builder and a businessman daily," Kevin said, holding that classic Knucklehead engine as if it was his baby. "I went from changing tires on the floor of my shop with screwdrivers, to building over a thousand bikes a year in less than a decade." With Mona at his side, they're moving into a 20,000-square-foot state-of-the-art manufacturing facility this year. It's the only manufacturing joint in the 17,000 population mountain resort community, strewn with pine trees, manzanita bushes, squirrels, and rattlesnakes.
When asked about his goals for this year, Kevin answered like any self-respecting biker/warrior. "We're launching a new bike called the Lead Sled, and a line of bobbers, dammit."
BBC built its first Lead Sled and launched it on its website, bigbearchoppers.com, in raw steel, no paint or chrome, and sold 10 in less than two weeks. "We pulled it down and moved it to another section of the site. Production wasn't geared up yet, but they continued to sell," Kevin added. "It's a drop seat, low, wide, and long classic BBC."
This year BBC will launch three more new models to bring its lineup to 12. "We build a custom bike, then the collection of components are tested to create the unassembled custom," Kevin said. "Not the other way around."
Regarding the Punk-Assed-Bitch Knucklehead, "It's an attention-grabber," Kevin said. "We're not a lumbering, giant corporation. We can dance on the balls of our feet. This is a kick-my-ass custom bike for the show circuit." Kevin developed several wild notions for this one-off bike, including the Sportster-style kicker. There is no electric start. And check the out-both-sides, winged exhaust system, sporting two wild-pipe tips made with a four-axes plasma cutting device. Kevin calls it the W rotation mill modified from a Z-configured head.
It must be something about that pure mountain air motivating Kevin and Mona daily to design and produce this level of assembled and unassembled bikes. We can't wait to see one of their new Lead Sleds blazing along a mountain twisty. We'll test one shortly. Watch for it in an upcoming issue.

No it is not a bicycle -- it's another crazy custom motorcycle from Jesse Rooke. From his hometown in Phoenix, Jesse has come up with some off the wall bikes, starting out with the cover bike on the January '03 issue of HOT BIKE. He has given his best effort to raise the bar for the custom bike world. So far, all of Jesse's bikes force you to ask a lot of questions, such as, is it rideable, and, where is the gas tank? This bike is no different. Jesse told us this bike was made just to practice, so when and if the Discovery Channel calls, he will have no trouble putting one together for the show without looking like he doesn't know what he's doing.


Jesse set out to build something so unique, you really have to look closely to see every detail. It started with the frame. Jesse's trademark style is a single-side rigid frame with 40 degrees of rake and 3 inches of stretch in the backbone. Jesse also had an oil bag incorporated into the rear section of the frame. It holds just over 2-1/2 quarts, and adds to the strength of the tubes. With space freed up for the oil bag, you will find the gas tank under the seat. To get the fuel to the carburetor, a small fuel pump was tucked under the seat area. The only suspension on the bike was part of a single-side Rooke Nana fork with an external gas shock and an adjustable damper for a smooth ride. Jesse made handlebars, which connected to the neck post, and welded them to the bearing cup cap, eliminating the use of triple-trees.


With this bike taking shape, Jesse had some wheels made called Rooke Sevens. He used a 21x2.75-inch wheel up front and an 18x9.5-incher out back, and both are covered in Metzeler rubber, with the rear being a 240. In keeping with the clean lines, Jesse made a rotor-sprocket combo and hidden caliper setup.
For the sheetmetal, Jesse welded on a Fat Katz fender to the rear section and trimmed it down to fit just under the seat. With no gas tank on the top of the frame, Jesse fabricated some sheetmetal to fill in the space between the downtube and the backbone, making it look like the nameplate of an old Schwinn bicycle.


With the chassis rolling around the shop and still looking like a bicycle, Jesse had to put some power to the bike. He placed a call to Indian and had one of its Powerplus 100 motors shipped out to his shop. From the minute he saw one in an Indian, he liked the look of its gloss black motor and round cylinders with polished fin tips. A 42mm Mikuni carburetor and some exhaust pipes from Wicked Bros. modified by Jesse were bolted onto this one-of-a-kind. To force all of the power to the rear wheel, a Baker six-speed right-side drive transmission and primary setup would do all the work. Jesse had some foot controls by Accutronix modified for the brake and clutch.
With the mock-up work done, Jesse stripped the bike down and sent everything out to Miguel's Psycle Paint Shop for molding and paint. Miguel got busy molding the frame to look seamless. He covered the bike in House of Kolors' Oriental Blue and Pearl White, then added some graphics to add to the bicycle style.


Assembly came quickly once the painted parts arrived back at the shop. Jesse wired up a CCI headlight and a Nasi taillight, then added a kickstand by HotMatch, some retro grips, and an internal throttle. The seat was a one-of-a-kind by Aaron Jenson.
The bike was finished in just over 30 days, in time for Sturgis. Keeping with the old-school-meets-new-school theme, Jesse's new bike draws a lot of attention when it is out on the road. However, he says the style is like a theft deterrent -- if they are scared to ride it, then they won't try to steal it.




Top Shelf Customs in Huntington Beach, California, rang us up a few months ago and inquired if we were interested in following the buildup of its new shop bike. We answered to the affirmative. One of the other magazines in our group ran a feature on a clean Panhead the shop built a while back, and if this bike was going to be even close to the quality of that one we would be more than interested. Barry and Todd own and operate Top Shelf and both have spent a few years in the custom bike industry specifically working for Performance Machine. Todd and Barry have a couple of Sportster projects under the belt and the Panhead we mentioned before. This time around they wanted to build a big twin that the average guy on the street could build, with just some light fabricating work to make the final bike interesting. So here is the first installment of Back To The Sixties.

Tuesday

Motorcycle Leather
A Purchasing Guide for Leather Motorcycle Apparel

Since the dawn of the age of motorcycling, it was apparent that something was needed to protect the exposed human body from the elements. The natural solution was leather. The leather motorcycle jacket, a style made popular by such movie icons as James Dean and “the Fonz”, not only serves as a fashion statement, but is an essential piece of equipment to any serious biker for keeping warm, dry, and in one piece. A good “riding grade” leather jacket combined with motorcycle chaps or leather pants, will act as a second skin between you and the road, and can quite literally “save your hide”. With all this in mind, let’s explore the things to consider when purchasing motorcycle leathers.
The most common material for motorcycle leather is cowhide, chosen for its strength and durability. Buffalo hide, another high quality leather, is made not from the U.S. buffalo, but the water buffalo most commonly found in India and Pakistan. Many leather products come from this part of the world, and the Pakistanis are world renown for their expertise in the manufacturing of leather garments. Whichever type of hide you choose, you must understand the tanning process, and how it adds or detracts from the quality of the leather.
Leather was of course once the skin of an animal, and therefore must go through a tanning process to strengthen it, and to keep it from decomposing. Tanning makes the skin stable and rot proof without sacrificing its structure and strength. The tanning process involves several stages, including the removal of the hair and the outer layer of skin, as well as the fatty part of the flesh. The hide is then stabilized by one of several methods using animal oils, alum, chrome salts or vegetable tanning. How it is actually finished determines the quality, or riding grade, for our purposes.

Types of Leather

To fully understand the types of leather available, one must first know the term “grain”. The grain is simply the epidermis, or outer layer of the animal’s skin. While imperfections such as cuts, scars, and scratches will exist, the grain in its natural state has the best fiber strength, and therefore the best durability. The grain also has natural breathability, resulting in greater comfort to the wearer.

Finished Split Leather

The middle or lower section of a hide that has been split into two or more thicknesses. A polymer coating is applied and embossed to mimic grain leather. Finished splits should only be used in low stress applications because they basically have no grain. If the polymer coating is left out it is often used to make suede. Not considered to be riding grade, but can look good nevertheless.

Top Grain Leather

Top grain leather has been sanded to remove scars and imperfections, then sprayed or pasted for a uniform look. The smooth side is where the hair and the natural grain used to be. Top grain is not the same quality as full grain or naked leather, but thicknesses of 1.2-3mm make this type of leather a very strong and durable riding grade material.

Full-Grain and Naked Leather

Full-Grain leather is made from the finest hides, and has not been sanded to remove imperfections. Only the hair has been removed. In the case of Naked Leather, where nothing other than the dye is added; this very soft leather requires no breaking in period. Hides are typically 2mm thick, and must be hand picked for uniformity. The natural full-grain naked leather will wear better than other leather, and will actually improve over the years. This type of leather is the ultimate riding grade; the most sought after, and consequently, the most expensive.

Now that we know what type of leather we want, we must understand the fact that leather is hot, and understand the options that we have for the climate we live in. For winter biking, a jacket with side laces and a belt will allow you to adjust the jacket to fit snugly against the upper body. Of course, being able to fully zip up only adds to your protection from the wind. You can also wear a leather vest underneath your motorcycle jacket for extra warmth. For hot summer days, a leather jacket with air vents allows the air to circulate underneath the jacket and around your body. For an all year round jacket, consider one with a zip or snap out insulated lining.

Leather is not meant to get wet, as that tends to deplete the natural oils, and it is advisable to wear a rain suit over your leathers in inclement weather. However if they do get wet, allow them to dry naturally away from extreme heat. If the leather seems to be losing its luster, it can be oiled to improve its appearance. This supplements the natural oils in the leather itself, which can be washed out through repeated exposure to water. Frequent oiling of leather with mink oil or other commercially available products will keep your leathers supple and improve their lifespan dramatically.

Now that you have found the perfect biker jacket, take care of it, and it will reward you with years of wear. The typical lifetime of a heavy textile jacket will be from 3 to 6 years at the most. A well maintained top quality leather motorcycle jacket will easily give you 10 years and more of riding pleasure!

The WT200 Bobster is a rigid with attitude from the old school look to the Polished 110 RevTech. This is a throwback to the old days of bobbers with ape hangers and sissy bars, spoke wheels and stripped down attitude. The WT200 Bobster is a great all around bike and you can even add an Airide seat for those long hauls.

110 CI RevTech Polished and Chrome Engine
6 Speed GCC Polished and Chrome Transmission
All Balls Chrome Starter
Tauer Machine 3" Open Belt Primary and Clutch
21x2.15 Front Billet Spoke Front Wheel covered w/a 21" Avon Tire
18x8.5 Rear Billet Spoke Wheel covered w/a 200 Avon Tire
Matching Pulley 70 Tooth
Polished SS Rotors Front and Rear
Wilwood GP310 Polished Billet Brakes
Frame is 4" up and 0" in the backbone with 1 3/8 tubing
Rake is 34* with 3* Billet Trees
2" Over Stock Forks with Billet Lower Legs
Custom Seat by GCC
Xzotic "Blower" 2 1/8 Pipes
Mikuni HSR45
Legends Polished Billet Forward Controls
Hurst Polished Billet Handlebar Controls
Maltese Turn Signals
Custom Kickstand
GCC Rear Fender and Sissy Bar
Round Painted Oil Tank
Chrome Billet Sidemount Lic/Taillight
The Zen of Cleaning and Preparing
Your Motorcycle

Cleaning and preparing your motorcycle after Winter storage should be a passionionate task. Yes, after the many months of waiting. Doing anything to your motorcyle is a much anticipated task. Sure it is not on the "hunny do list." But it is the number one to do item on your list. Whether you ride a BMW tourer, ZZR1200 Sport Tourer, or Victory Kingpin, you should approach the task like a Zen master. Learning about your bike again, fine tuning it up and preparing it for its first spring ride. So, get out the cache of cleaning supplies, soap, polish and waxes, lubricants, etc... and get to it!The following punch list has been comprised by reading through the various motorcycle owners manuals (MOMs) and service manuals. As well as, from my own experiences as to what works. After a few months in storage for both you and your bike, I encourage you to read your general maintenance sections of your M.O.M just to make sure you did not forget something basic like inflating the tires to the proper inflation specifications.Check battery terminals (clean, if necessary, with baking soda and water).Dry or apply an after wash product (there are several available), then dry.Check oil and other lubricants.Check cables and lub with specified lubricants.Check tire pressure and wear.Check, charge, or install the battery (positive lead first).Check all lights, and operation of each.Check brake fluid level, and pads/shoes for wear.Wash or apply a pre-wash, and then thoroughly "bathe" your ride.Apply leather treatment to leather components.Check drive belt, chain, or shaft.Polish and wax all chrome and painted parts.Add "octane" booster (if desired) according to directions.Clean inside of helmet with mild soap (let dry).Write down beginning mileage.Review any notes written before putting your motorcycle in Winter storage.Finally, you made it through your first spring motorcycle maintenance task and now are one with your motorcycle. Well, not quite yet. Now you need to fine-tune yourself. By that I mean, practice your basic riding skills. Head out to an empty parking lot and practice your braking, slow-speed riding techniques, and clutch control. You will find that you are a bit rusty. This will also give you a chance to see if there is anything you missed while going through your spring tune-up punch list.The bottom line is to have fun. Motorcycling is all about the passion. I firmly believe in one doing their own motorcycle maintenance. If you are doubtful of your mechanical skill all you need to do is go to one fo the many online motorcycle forum sites and post questions or browse their How-To articles. Ideally you want to go to a site that pertains to your model motorcycle.

Saturday

Greene County Choppers Inc. of Springfield Mo. now offers this cool new chopper "WT250 The Boss" comes with 43 Degrees of overall rake and twelve over in the fork tubes. Built on a dual down tube frame and powered by a Polished RevTech 110 CI Engine and Polished Six Speed GCC Tranny this bike turns heads. Has a 250 Venom rear tire and a 21 inch Venom front tire mounted on billet aluminum wheels with an airide system that adjusts on the fly.


110 CI RevTech Polished and Chrome Engine
6 Speed GCC Polished and Chrome Transmission
All Balls Chrome Starter
BDL 3" Open Belt Primary and Clutch
21x2.15 Front Billet Front Wheel covered w/a 21" Avon Tire
18x8.5 Rear Billet Wheel covered w/a 250 Avon Tire
Matching Pulley 70 Tooth
Matching Rotors Front and Rear
Wilwood Polished Billet Brakes
Frame is 8" up and 5" in the backbone with 1 3/8 tubing
Rake is 38* with 5* Billet Trees
12" Over Front Forks with Billet Lower Legs
Custom Seat by GCC
GCC Custom 2 1/4 Pipes
Mikuni HSR45
Legends Polished Billet Forward Controls
Chrome Billet Handlebar Controls
Bullet Turn Signals
Custom Kickstand
GCC Strutless Rear Fender
Round Chrome Oil Tank
Chrome Billet Sidemount Lic/Taillight
"The Boss" Aircleaner by D&M Customs
Dakota Digital Dash Mounted in Tank
GCC Airide System


The WT200 Gangster is another rigid with attitude. The Springer front-end and King Sporster tank along with the GCC rear strutles fender set this apart. With a powerful 110 Polished RevTech and GCC 6 Speed this is one cool ride. The WT200 Gangster pictured comes with a GCC Airide Seat for long hauls or older kidneys.

110 CI RevTech Polished and Chrome Engine
6 Speed GCC Polished and Chrome Transmission
All Balls Chrome Starter
Tauer Machine 3" Open Belt Primary and Clutch
21x2.15 Front Billet Maltese Front Wheel covered w/a 21" Avon Tire
18x8.5 Rear Billet Maltese Wheel covered w/a 200 Avon Tire
Matching Pulley 70 Tooth
Matching Rotors Front and Rear
Wilwood GP300 Polished Billet Brakes
Frame is 4" up and 0" in the backbone with 1 3/8 tubing
Rake is 34*
2" Over Stock Springer Forks
Custom Seat by GCC
Xzotic "Fuelees" 2 1/4 Pipes
Mikuni HSR45
Legends Polished Billet Forward Controls
Chrome Billet Handlebar Controls
Bullet Turn Signals
Custom Kickstand
GCC Strutless Rear Fender
Round Chrome Oil Tank
Chrome Billet Sidemount Lic/Taillight

Thursday

California Helmet Law

STATUTE:
California Vehicle Code, Division 12, Chapter 5, Article 7, Section 27803.


"(a) A driver and any passenger shall wear a safety helmet meeting requirements established pursuant to Section 27802 when riding on a motorcycle, motor-driven cycle, or motorized bicycle."(b) It is unlawful to operate a motorcycle, motor-driven cycle, or motorized bicycle if the driver or any passenger is not wearing a safety helmet as required by subdivision (a)."(c) It is unlawful to ride as a passenger on a motorcycle, motor-driven cycles, or motorized bicycle if the driver or any passenger is not wearing a safety helmet as required by subdivision (a)."(d) This section applies to persons who are riding on motorcycles, motor-driven cycles, or motorized bicycles operated on the highways."(e) For the purposes of this section, 'wear a safety helmet' or 'wearing a safety helmet' means having a safety helmet meeting the requirements of Section 27802 (see :Standards" below) on the person's head that is fastened with the helmet straps and that is of a size that fits the wearing person's head securely without excessive lateral or vertical movement."(f) In enacting this section, it is the intent of the Legislature to ensure that all persons are provided with an additional safety benefit while operating or riding a motorcycle, motor-driven cycle, or motorized bicycle."

FINE:
Only in California . . .
The LAW says (in pertinent part):
Section 40303.5:


"Whenever any person is arrested for any of the following offenses, the arresting officer shall permit the arrested person to execute a notice containing a promise to correct the violation in accordance with the provisions of 40610 unless the arresting officer finds that any of the disqualifying conditions specified in the subdivision (b) of Section 40610 exist: . . . (d) Any infraction involving equipment set forth in Division 12 (commencing with Section 240000) . . . (Note: which includes section 27803, the helmet law.)"
Section 40610(b) states:
"Pursuant to subdivision (a), a notice to correct violation shall be issued as provided in this section . . . unless the officer finds any of the following:
"(1) Evidence of fraud or persistent neglect."(2) The violation presents an immediate safety hazard."(3) The violator does not agree to, or cannot, promptly correct the violation."
Therefore, a violation of California's helmet law is -- as a matter or Law according to the language of the statutes -- an equipment violation, and carries with it only a need to show "proof of correction" and the payment of a $10 fine. However, . . .

The CHP (California Highway Patrol) says:

CHP Enforcement Bulletin #42, issued in May, 1994, states that a violation of CVC 27803 constitutes an "immediate safety hazard" and is therefore not correctable as provided in Section 40303.5 (see above). The California Judicial Council affirmed this edict, and for the most part the California courts pretty much disregard everything but the wishes of the CHP . . . and that includes disregarding the Law.
So, the fine for violation of California's helmet law can be anything from $10 and "proof of correction" up to $250.00 and one year's probation. It all depends on who you ask!

STANDARDS:
California Vehicle Code, Division 12, Chapter 5, Article 7, Section 27802.
"(a) The department may adopt reasonable regulations establishing specifications and standards for safety helmets offered for sale, or sold, for use by drivers and passengers of motorcycles and motorized bicycles as it determines are necessary for the safety of those drivers and passengers. The regulations shall include, but are not limited to, the requirements imposed by Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 218 (49 C.F.R. Sec. 571.218) and may include compliance with that federal standard by incorporation of its requirements by reference. Each helmet sold or offered for sale for use by drivers and passengers of motorcycles and motorized bicycles shall be conspicuously labeled in accordance with the federal standard which shall constitute the manufacturer's certification that the helmet conforms to the applicable federal motor vehicle safety standards."(b) No person shall sell, or offer for sale, for use by a driver or passenger of a motorcycle or motorized bicycle any safety helmet which is not of a type meeting requirements established by the department."

COURT DECISIONS:

" . . . it is clear the law requires only that the consumer wear a helmet bearing a certification of compliance." Buhl v. Hannigan 16 Cal.App. 4th 1612 (1993).
" . . . the statement in Buhl that consumer compliance with the state law only requires the consumer to wear a helmet bearing the DOT self-certification sticker does not apply when a helmet has been shown not to conform with federal standards and the consumer has actual knowledge of this fact." Bianco v. California Highway Patrol, 24 Cal.App. 4th 1113 (1994).

"The courts held that citations should only be issued in two situations: (1) when a helmet was not certified by the manufacturer at the time of sale or (2) when a rider wearing a helmet certified by the manufacturer at the time of sale has actual knowledge of a showing of a determination of non-conformity with federal standards. . . . or (3) Other competent objective evidence from independent laboratory testing that the helmet does not meet FMVSS 218." Easyriders v. Hannigan (887 F.SUPP. 240).

NOTE:

In the history of jurisprudence, there has never been a more ridiculous series of rulings and enactments than have occurred in California; with the courts' efforts to hold California's helmet law in, on the one hand, against the CHP's determination to act out every possible oppressive act of discrimination against bikers imaginable, on the other. The latest demonstration of the CHP's frustration with the confinements of the law appeared in March, 1996, with the issuance of CHP Bulletin #59. Shame on the lot of them!!

COMMENTARY:

From our beginning in 1993, it has been the position of the Helmet Law Defense League that all helmet laws are unconstitutional , in the absence of clear guidelines on how to comply with the statute -- like with a list of "approved helmets."

NO LIST? NO LAW!

If a state, any state, cannot answer the question:
"How can a motorcyclist comply, with certainty , with the provisions of the helmet law?"

that state's statute(s) requiring the wearing of a "helmet," "safety helmet," or "protective headgear" is unconstitutionally vague.
Although the California Legislature may have thought that they could authorize the Commissioner of the California Highway Patrol to set standards for helmets, the Commissioner was and is confined, by law, to adopting only those standards established by the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration. The California Highway Patrol has exceeded its authority and adopted standards regarding enforcement that extend far beyond Federal Motor Vehicle Standard (FMVSS) 218
-- the Federal standard for motorcycle helmets -- which is why the California helmet law will ultimately be successfully challenged on that basis alone, and removed. (see Juvenile Products v. Edmist , 568 F.Supp. 714 (1983))
If the California Highway Patrol were, even at this late date, adopt FMVSS 218, then the California helmet law will be challenged on the basis that FMVSS 218 is not intelligible to persons of average intelligence, and removed. (see Washington v. Maxwel , 74 WASH.APP. 688, 878 P.2D 1220 (1994))
Today, there is a lot of activity going on the courts in an effort to encourage them to quit dodging the inevitibility of the situation. Most of this effort is being put forth by BOLT of California. It is our belief that if we can just keep the pressure on -- in fact if we could turn up the burner -- California's helmet law will be one of the next to go. We'll keep you posted.

Wednesday

Making More Horsepower

Making horsepower can be addressed from two sides: engineering, and mythology. In this article I will focus on the engineering. I'm not an expert on mythology. Some of the claims I've heard are truly remarkable: "changing pipes on my Sportster added 35 horsepower", "my big twin is making 130 horsepower", "I can run my Softail at 7,500 rpm all day long". Apparently these bikes are not subject to the laws of physics. We'll see in this article that actually, none of these claims are believable.
Stock Harley Davidson engines are tuned to meet noise and emission standards. In the '70's and '80's, Harleys came with more power. The Harley engine can be re-tuned to make substantially more torque and horsepower with no loss in fuel mileage or reliability. After you do this, however, your bike will be somewhat louder and fail to meet emission tests.
In this article, I'll make specific recommendations. These recommendations are based on the premise that you want a reliable engine which makes good torque at low rpms, and reasonable horsepower at high rpm's. If you want to race, or want to ride around town with a racing engine, my recommendations are not for you. Of course, a racing engine will have relatively poor performance at low rpm, use a lot of gas, cost a lot more to build, need more maintenance, and will not last very long. But, they are a blast while they last.

Torque

The Harleys are V-twins, the BMW is a flat twin, the Honda is a V-4, and the Kawasaki is an in-line 4. We see that these different engines based on very different technologies all made about the same peak torque. If your engine is configured correctly, it will make about 1 foot pound of peak engine torque per cubic inch. Best case is about 1.1. That's pretty much it.
For peak torque, this leaves us with only a few things to play around with. First, there's the "configured correctly". Your engine is basically just a large air pump, and you want it to have a good pumping efficiency. On a stock Harley, there are two things which can be improved relating to pumping efficiency: carburetors and exhaust pipes.
Also, we see in chart 4 that, although the engines make about the same peak torque, they achieve this torque at very different rpms. The Kawasaki is the highest revving engine, making peak torque at 8500 rpm, and peak horsepower at 10,500 rpm. The California Harley makes its power at the lowest rpm: peak torque is at 2400 rpm, and peak horsepower is at 5000 rpm.

The horsepower curves for these bikes are in chart 5. We see that the bikes which make their torque at the highest rpm also make the most horsepower. This is a fact from physics: to make more horsepower, you need to make your torque at higher rpm.
You can choose the rpm at which your bike makes its peak torque by changing the cam shaft. At the same time as you change your cam shaft, you must consider making other modifications to your engine including push rods, valve springs, valve jobs, valve spring keepers, and head porting. Depending on the cam shaft you choose, you may need none of these extra modifications, or some, or all.
Finally, the Harley ignition system is again chosen for emission tests. You can improve the low-rpm power and over all performance of your bike by changing this.

Here's about the best we can do with a 80 inch Harley: about 85 foot-pounds at about 6000 rpm. This works out to 97 horsepower. To do better, we either need to over-rev the engine, bore or stroke the engine, or get an assist from the gods on Mount Olympus.
Carburetors

The stock carburetor is configured to meet smog and noise regulations, not to produce power. Stock Harleys run very lean for emissions purposes, which makes them run hot and get good gas mileage. When you tune your carburetor correctly, you will cool down the engine and lose about 2 miles per gallon. Also, the stock air cleaner is very restrictive and almost completely enclosed to reduce intake noise.

There are several approaches to fixing this. All approaches start with replacing the air cleaner. This must be followed by either rejetting the carburetor, or replacing it. Just replacing the air cleaner and fixing the carburetor increases horsepower by 10-15%. Rejetting can be done by adding a Dynajet kit. Or, the carburetor can be replaced with a Mikuni, S&S, or other high quality carburetor.

Some people prefer the stock CV Keihen carburetor because of its altitude compensating abilities: a constant vacuum carburetor is less sensitive to altitude changes than a slide carburetor like a Mikuni. If you tour through the Rockys and Sierras, the stock Keihen CV, rejetted, might be a good choice for you. If you have an older Harley with a non-CV Keihen, you should be able to buy a used CV Keihen at a swap meet for very little money.

Some people prefer the Mikuni because of its excellent performance at all rpm. The 40 millimeter Mikuni works marginally on an 883 Sportster, and very well on 1000, 1100, and 1200 Sportsters and 74 and 80 inch big twins. The 42 millimeter Mikuni is a bit too big for a 1200 Sportster or a 1340 big twin, and should only be used on larger engines.
Finally, some people prefer the S&S because it has very good performance, many Harley mechanics are familiar with its jetting characteristics, and it's made in America.
A Screamin' Eagle air cleaner is about $40, and the Dynajet kit is about $75. Expect to pay about $100 to have them installed. A Mikuni carburetor kit, which includes an air cleaner, is about $300. Expect to pay about $100 to have it installed. An S&S Super E carburetor is about $340, including an air cleaner, plus about $100 for installation. You can also buy a Bendix carburetor for about $275.

Exhaust Pipes

Exhaust pipes must be correctly tuned in terms of head pipe diameter, head pipe length, and muffler back pressure. For example, in the '70's, Harley Davidson had two nearly identical racing pipes for the XR 750 - one was 1/2 inch longer and made seven more horsepower. Drag pipes are the worst. Staggered duals are generally best at low to mid rpm, and two into one pipes are generally best at higher rpm. Generally, better pipes are louder, although the loudest pipes are usually drag pipes, and these make terrible power.
The stock exhaust pipes are rather restrictive, although they are not nearly so bad as many people think. Simply drilling a 1 to 1.5 inch hole through the baffles of the stock Harley pipes makes about 93% as much horsepower as the best pipes, and more horsepower than a rather embarrassing number of after market pipes. This does not work on '95 California pipes with catalytic converters - you'll have to buy new pipes or new mufflers. California riders should be able to buy a set of stock '94 or earlier exhaust pipes for about $50 from your Harley shop or local swap meet. There's about a billion sets of these available, and about zero purchasers.

For power, Cycle Shack, RevTech, Python II and SuperTrap pipes are all excellent. Unless you have substantially more than 80 cubic inches, you should stick to 1 3/4 inch pipes - 2 inch pipes will not perform as well.
Cycle Shack pipes are $160 - $225. Python II pipes are about $275. SuperTrap pipes are $325 - $400. Installation of any of these pipes should be about $25.

Compression Ratio

Next, for torque, there's "brake mean effective pressure". BMEP is a rather complicated thing, but it is almost the same as compression ratio. Big twins are built with compression ratios of about 8.2 to 1. If you have 50-100 thousandths milled off the heads, your compression ratio will raise to 9-10 to 1. 9 to 1 compression is 10% higher than 8.2 to 1, and therefore will make 10% more torque than 8.2 to 1. Unfortunately, you can't just keep milling the heads. At about 9.5 to 1, most Harleys will start to detonate (that's bad), and at about 10.5 to 1, almost nobody can keep them running (yes, I know there are a few magicians out there).
Generally, removing 50 thousandths is completely safe, removing 80 thousandths is relatively safe, and removing 100 thousandths requires good ignition and carburetor tuning. Removing 80 thousandths will turn a 70 horsepower engine into an 80 horsepower engine.
Unfortunately, in order to mill the heads, you need to open up the engine. You should expect to pay about $200 for disassembly and assembly, and about $250 for machine work.
Alternatively, you can buy Wiseco forged high-compression pistons. These will cost about $200, plus $200 for assembly, plus $100 for boring the cylinders.

Larger Bore and Stroke

Finally, for more torque, there's more cubic inches. As they say in drag racing, "there's no substitute for cubic dollars." To increase the size of your engine, you can bore out the cylinders and use larger pistons, or trade crankshafts for a "stroker". As we've seen, engines make about 1 foot-pound of torque for each cubic inch, so if you increase your big twin from 80 to 90, 100, or 120 cubic inches, and the carburetor and exhaust pipes are correctly selected, you can raise your torque from 80 to about 90, 100, or perhaps as much as 120 foot-pounds. Again, there are trade-offs involved here.
At any given rpm, the pistons are moving up and down once per revolution. This means at 5000 rpm, the pistons are moving twice the length of the stroke per revolution, times 5000 revolutions per minute. On a stock big twin, which has a stroke of 4.25", the pistons are moving 4.25 x 2 x 5000 = 42,500 inches per minute = 3,542 feet per minute. This is pretty fast. Metal technology can only support running a piston up to about 4,200 to 4,500 feet per minute on a regular basis. Our Kawasaki ZX-11, for example, revs to almost 12,000 rpm, but has a stroke of only 2.28", and is therefore running its pistons at 4,370 feet per minute at 11,500 rpm. A big twin runs 4,300 feet per minute at 6,070 rpm. The Sportster, with a stroke of 3.8 inches, is running its pistons at 4320 feet per minute at 6,800 rpm.
You will hear of people who run their big twins up as high as 7,500 rpm, but they are putting drag racing loads on their engines. Remember: drag engines only have to live for about 10 seconds, and typically only run about a total of 5 minutes before they're shot. Most of us expect better longevity from our engines. I would not run a Harley big twin over 6,000 rpm. Although a Sportster piston can run almost up to 7,000 rpm, the exhaust valves start to float at about 6,500 rpm. This is bad. With stock valve springs, a Sportster should not be run over 6,500 rpm.
It is interesting to note that the Chevy 350 in a Corvette ZR-1 has a stroke of 3.48" and only goes 6,000 rpm, and the Chevy 454 has a stroke of 4" and only goes 4,600 rpm. The Sportster has a longer stroke then a 350 Chevy, and the big twin has a longer stroke than a GM 454. If you thought your Harley was engineered to the same standards as GM engines, you would not exceed about 6000 rpm on a Sportster and 5000 rpm on a big twin.

When you put a stroker crankshaft in your bike, this only gets worse. For example, a 100 inch stroker will typically have a 5.25" stroke. If you believe that your pistons should not exceed 4,300 feet per minute, then you believe that this engine should not exceed 5,000 rpm. Thus, while the torque from a stroker can be truly awe-inspiring, the maximum allowable rpm and therefore the maximum available horsepower will not break a world record. A 100" stroker putting out 100 foot-pounds of torque at 4000 rpm and 80 foot-pounds of torque at 5000 rpm is making 76 horsepower at both 4000 and 5000 rpm. This may pull your arms out of their sockets, but some well-built 80 inch twins will beat you in a race because of their ability to run at higher rpm.

Some engine builders will tell you that their strokers can exceed these rpm limits. David Ogilvy once said: "Advertising is to a business what engines are to an airplane: you can turn them off and coast for a while...". Well, you can exceed these rpm limits for a while, too.
Big bore kits and stroker cranks are expensive, require substantial engine work, and must be part of a complete package which includes carburetion and typically head work. Expect to pay $1500 to $2500. I would choose a mechanic with a lot of experience building racing engines. Some combinations of pistons and crankshafts work a lot better than others.
If you have an 883 Sportster, boring it out to a 1200 using either the Harley kit or the Wiseco kit is a very inexpensive way to get a lot more power. The Harley kit is, well, from Harley. It requires you to reshape the combustion chambers. This is not too hard. Also, the 1200 pistons are a little heavier than the 883 pistons, so your crankshaft will be a little out of balance and your bike will vibrate a little more. This is not a big deal. The Wiseco kit does not require combustion chamber reshaping, and the pistons are made to balance correctly with the 883 crankshaft. With either kit, if you leave in the 883 valves, you'll make better torque in the low end, and a little less horsepower in the top end. Changing to 1200 valves will give you the same power band the 1200 has.

Cam Shafts

Now that your Harley is making as much torque as it can, you can choose your power band. That is, you can choose the rpm where your engine makes its peak power. The most important component for choosing your power band is the cam shaft. The cam shaft determines when and how much your intake and exhaust valves open.
First, we'll discuss valve lift. Valve lift is the amount your valves open. On a stock evolution big twin build before 1992, the valve lift is .495 inches - about 1/2 inch. In 1992, Harley changed their cam. The valve lift is now .472 inches.
The more lift your cam has, the more fuel/air mixture gets in your engine. As usual, there's a limit. If your cam has more than 1/2 inch of lift, the stock valve springs bind. This is bad. Also, if your valve lift at piston top dead center is too much, the valves might hit the pistons, or bump into each other. This is very bad. Cams with more than 1/2 inch of lift should only be installed by expert racing mechanics, and generally are not suitable for street bikes.

Next, we'll discuss duration. The cam shaft determines when the valves open and close. This is actually more complicated than it seems at first.
On the compression and power strokes, nothing much interesting happens with the valves. They mostly just sit closed in their seats.
When the piston is almost at the bottom of the power stroke, the crankshaft pin is mostly moving front to back, and the piston is mostly not moving. Because of this, the piston has already extracted all the power from the burned fuel that it is going to get. So, we can open the exhaust valve a little before the piston reaches bottom.
When the engine is on its exhaust stroke, the piston is moving up, and pushing the exhaust gases out the exhaust pipe. While this is happening, the air in the exhaust pipe builds up a significant amount of momentum. Because of this momentum, the intake valve can be opened before the piston reaches the top.

When the cam shaft first opens the intake valve, the valve is only opened a small amount. So, it's best if the intake valve is busy opening while not much intake is happening. Also, the momentum in the exhaust pipes causes an effective suction at the intake valve, so even though the piston is still coming up, at high rpm the intake valve can usefully open.
When the piston is first starting to travel down on its intake stroke, the momentum in the exhaust pipes will continue to pull the burned fuel / air out the exhaust valve and in from the intake valve. So, for a little while, even though the piston is pulling down on its intake stroke, we leave the exhaust valve open. At some point in time, which depends on the engine rpm, the intake manifold, and the exhaust pipes, the intake charge reaches the exhaust valve. This is the time to close the exhaust valve.
This period when both the intake and exhaust valves are open simultaneously is called the overlap. Stock Harley cams have no overlap. Typical performance cams have 30 to 60 degrees of overlap - that is, for 30 to 60 degrees of crank shaft rotation, both valves are open. During the overlap period, particularly at low rpm, some of the intake charge will go out the exhaust valve unburned. This is very bad from an emissions standpoint.

When the piston reaches bottom on the intake stroke, there's still a lot of momentum in the intake manifold. Also, while the piston is near the bottom of the stroke, the crankshaft pin is mostly moving front-to-back, not up and down, so the piston is basically not moving for a while. Because of these two effects, the intake valve is left hanging open for a while. The higher the rpm at which you wish to make power, the longer you leave the valve open.

So, although one might feel intuitively that the valves are each open for 180 degrees, in fact with most cams the valves are open significantly longer than that. The longer the valves are open, the higher the rpm at which the cam is effective.

The stock California cam keeps the valves open for about 178 degrees of crank shaft rotation, so we say it has about 178 degrees of duration. It makes peak torque at 2,400 rpm. The Crane Fireball 310 cam has about 238 degrees of duration, and makes peak torque at about 4,000 rpm. The Kawasaki ZX-11 cam has about 288 degrees of duration, and makes peak torque at 8,500 rpm.

So, we can roughly predict how much cam duration we want, depending on where we want to produce our peak torque. It must be emphasized that these figures all depend on the carburetor, intake tract, exhaust pipes, precise cam timing, rod to stroke ratio, and the flow characteristics of the head. These factors can change the peak torque rpm by 1000 rpm in a Harley. Never the less, we can still see a basic trend.
In chart 3, the graph shows us which cams will produce about what peak torque rpm. Since a Harley big twin should not rev much over 6,000 rpm, the "correct" cam for a big twin will produce peak torque at 3,000 to 5,000 rpm, and therefore have about 190 to 250 degrees of duration. Less duration will produce more low end torque and less top end horsepower; more duration will produce less low end torque and more top end horsepower.

There are many popular cam shafts made which fall into this range, including stock Harley Davidson cams from pre-1992; the Andrews EV13, EV27, EV3, EV46, and EV35; the Crane Fireball 300, 310, and 316; the Sifton Interstate and Ascot; and the Bartels BP20 and BP40. Stock Harley cams from 92-95 are best used as door stops and paper weights. I cannot personally recommend throwing stock Harley cams through the windows of the EPA offices, but I admit I would be very amused to read about it happening.

When changing the cam in a Harley, your selection should be based on what power characteristics you want in your engine. The stock 88-91 cam, the EV13, and the Fireball 300 are all comparable, with about 225° duration, and an emphasis on low end torque, at the expense of some top end horsepower. The EV3, EV27, Fireball 310, Interstate, and BP20 are all comparable with about 235° duration, giving good low end and top end and strong mid range. The EV46, EV35, Fireball 316, Ascot, and BP40 are all comparable with about 246° duration, and an emphasis on mid range and top end, sacrificing some low end torque. This last group should probably only be used in the lighter big twins such as FXRs and DynaGlides. Their low end torque characteristics are less suitable for the heavier Softails and FLHs.

Strokers have a very different rod to stroke ratio than stock motors, and different stroke to intake tract length ratio, and accordingly they need different cam shaft durations to achieve the same results. If you are building a stroker, you should ask the crank shaft factory and the cam shaft factory for recommendations.
When you are changing the cam shaft in a big twin, there's a trick: if you have adjustable push rods, you don't need to take the valve covers off the bike to change the cams. You use a bolt cutter to remove the stock solid push rods, then remove the old cam, insert the new cam, and insert then adjust the new push rods. So, if you're not doing head work, you can change the cam shaft without even removing the gas tank. If you are doing head work, then you will need adjustable push rods to compensate for the new head height. So, basically, you should always use adjustable push rods.

Push rods come in aluminum and chrome moly. The aluminum works just fine for most motors; however, the chrome moly rods are only $10-$20 more, so whatever you choose will probably work out. Chrome moly rods should be used in high rpm high cam lift engines.
Head Work
The stock Harley heads flow air just fine up to 4,000 to 4,500 rpm. A lot of people spend $700 to $1200 to get ported and polished heads which promise to make more horsepower. Well, they do, but only at very high rpm, and often at the expense of low rpm torque.
If achieving maximum air flow was our only consideration, the Holley 780CFM 4 barrel carburetor would be a standard hop- up device for Harleys. In fact, if you bolted one of these Holley carburetors up to a Harley, the Harley would never get the air flowing through the carburetor fast enough for the carburetor to start working. Faster intake flow makes the carburetor and cam shaft work better. Smaller ports make faster flow. However, smaller ports will not support enough air flow at high rpm. So, as usual, there's a trade off between low end torque and high end horsepower.

If you do get your heads ported, the exhaust port should be polished to a mirror surface. The less drag in the exhaust ports, the better. Also, it's a good idea to have your exhaust pipes and exhaust ports matched up.
On the intake side, the ports should be finished to about a roughness of 250. This feels like the strike area on a match book. This roughness creates a small amount of turbulence in the intake charge, which helps the air and fuel mix for better combustion.
On stock Harley heads, there's a lump just above the intake valve seat on the inlet side, and another lump just above the exhaust valve seat on the outlet side. Smoothing out these lumps gets you most of the benefit available from porting the heads.

A really good, experienced person can re-shape the combustion chambers for more efficient burning. Good combustion chambers can allow you to run at higher compression ratios, which makes more torque everywhere. The stock Harley combustion chambers work pretty well up to about 9.5 to one compression. To get much past 9.5 to one, you need to improve the combustion chambers, or add dual spark plugs, or both.
You can build a good, reliable 70-75 horsepower engine with great low end torque for about $1000 without ever removing the valve covers. For another $1000, you can have the heads removed, milled, ported, polished, and re-installed, and pick up an extra 5-10 horsepower.
Depending on who ports your heads, you could also lose low-end torque due to excessive port size. And, ported heads are like cut hair: you can't put it back. Your local shop almost certainly knows somebody who "ports heads better than Jerry Branch". Interestingly, as near as I can tell, every city in America has some guy who "ports heads better than Jerry Branch", and another guy who is "15th degree red belt, and the emperor's personal bodyguard". If you're going to get your heads ported, I suggest you send away and get the real thing from Branch, Hardy, or RevTech.
I'm not real big on porting heads for street motors. However, since there's hundreds of dollars of shop time involved, many mechanics are real big on ported heads.
Ignition

The ignition on a stock Harley is calibrated for EPA emission testing. In the real world, the stock ignition causes hard starting, poor low end response, back firing, and probably cancer and heart disease. The single biggest improvement you can make to a Harley, in my opinion, is to replace the ignition.
The Harley ignition is electronic. This means that attached to the end of the crankshaft, there's a little magnet. A small coil of wire picks up when the magnet sweeps by. Nearby, there's a little computer system, which looks at the pulses coming in from the coil and decides when the ignition should fire.
At low rpm, the spark plugs are to fire just a little bit before the pistons get to top dead center. As the rpm increases, the spark plugs must fire more and more ahead of the pistons reaching top dead center. This is because the flame front of the burning fuel in the combustion chamber takes a little time to work its way across the cylinder. Since this flame propagation time does not change, as the engine runs faster and faster the spark must come earlier and earlier so as to have the fuel completely burned when the piston is at the top of the cylinder.
Making the spark plugs fire earlier and earlier is called spark advance. The computer module, also known as the ignition module, has built into it a table: for various rpm, the table tells the computer how much to advance the spark. This table is called the ignition map or advance map. On some vehicles (but not Harleys) this map is built into a separate, replaceable chip; replacement chips are called power chips. Also, on fuel injected vehicles (such as Harley's '95 FLHTCI), there is another table in the chip which tells the computer when to fire the fuel injectors.
The Harley ignition map was designed to mollify EPA officials. From a rider's point of view, it's junk. Unfortunately, since the chip is sealed into the computer module, we have to throw away the entire computer system and replace it with a new one. Fortunately, computer modules are cheap these days. A new ignition module costs $100 to $250, depending on the brand and the options (sorry, no color monitors available).
There are any number of fine ignitions available. The Screamin' Eagle ignition module just plugs in: installation takes less than ten minutes and requires only screwdrivers. It costs about $100 and will fix all of the above listed problems.
For another $50, you can get the Screamin' Eagle ignition coils. These are not very important unless you're planning to run your engine above 5,000 rpm frequently.
For more money and more work, you can also get a fine ignition system from Dyna, Accell, Jacobs, CompuFire, or MC Power Arc.
Some of these ignition system are "single fire", and some are "dual fire". Dual fire ignition systems, like the Harley systems, use one coil for both cylinders and fire both spark plugs at the same time. This means one cylinder is getting a spark while it is about half way through compression. This sounds really bad, but actually it's no big deal: the mixture is not compressed enough to light up, so not much happens.
Single fire ignition systems have two coils - one for each cylinder - and fire each spark plug independently. Of course, this is just better. However, it's more expensive, and you have to find places to hide two coils. A single fire ignition will improve your idle and make your engine run more smoothly with less vibration, particularly at low rpm.
For most people, just using the Screamin' Eagle ignition module will work just fine. If you're building a high rpm high horsepower engine, you should probably get a single fire ignition.
Some engine builders remove the Harley ignition system altogether and replace it with points. This is insane. If you intend to ride your Harley more than 50 miles at a time, or get more than 50 miles away from home, don't do this. The only good things to say about points is that they are easy to understand, and easy to throw away.
Gearing
The last thing you can do for the performance of your bike is change the gearing. Harley Davidson has made two front pulleys, 27 tooth and 29 tooth, and two rear pulleys, 61 tooth and 70 tooth. In 1994, 883s came with 27/70, and 1200 Sportsters and all big twins came with 29/70. '93 big twins came 27/61 (softail) and 27/70 (everything else). '95 big twins come 27/61 (softail) and 29/70 (everything else). The best combination for acceleration is 27/70. The combination which gets you the lowest rpm in fifth gear is 29/61. I consider 29/70 to be a pretty good compromise.
Table 1 shows the top speed in each gear for the various alternatives. The difference between 29/61 and 27/70 is almost a full gear. Each step is about 7%. A 7% reduction in gearing gives you a 7% improvement in rear-wheel torque. This is about the gain you get from the best exhaust pipes made. Softail's acelleration will particularly benefit from a switch to 29/70 or 27/70; however, there will be more engine rpm at 60 mph, and therefore more vibration.

Trouble shootingThis list is by no means comprehensive, but it will help. There are several books on building Harley engines which can help, including the Clymers shop manual. Also, Mikuni sells a carburation manual for $7.95 which is indispensable.
Engine pops or backfires when you close the throttle and decelerate in gear. The low speed jets in the carburetor are too lean.
Exhaust pipes are turning blue. The carburetor is too lean, probably in the needle jet.
Exhaust pipes have black carbon buildup inside, which comes off on your finger. The carburetor is too rich, probably needle jet or needle seat. You're blowing unburned gas out your exhaust pipes.
Engine detonation (sounds like loose change rattling around in the engine):
Full throttle only, on hot days, at low rpm. Carburetor is a bit lean in needle seat or main jet. Not too serious. We all have this problem sometimes.
Full throttle only, on hot days, at mid or high rpm. Carburetor is a bit lean in needle seat or main jet. This is more serious. Get on this problem soon.
Happens even while cruising at a constant speed. Carburetion is way too lean, or compression ratio is too high, or the gas you just bought is Tijuana special, cut with #2 diesel. Pull off the road, call for a trailer. This is big time serious.
Black smoke on full throttle acceleration. Main jet is too rich.
Grey smoke on full throttle acceleration. Bad valve guide seals, or bad rings. The engine was mis-assembled.
Grey smoke when you start the engine, particularly when cold. Bad valve guide seals. The engine was mis-assembled.
Ticking sound which goes faster and slower as the engine does.
Bad spark plug connection to ignition coil (pray this is it).
Stuck lifter.
Improper valve to valve clearance, or improper valve to piston clearance.
Engine misses at idle or full throttle acceleration. Bad connection from ignition coils to spark plugs.
Truly crummy gas mileage, as in less than 40 when cruising, or less than 35 around town.
Too much cam duration. You're blowing gas out your exhaust pipes.
Carburetor is way too rich, especially in the midrange.
Accelerator pump on carburetor is adjusted too aggressively.
Oil drips out the air cleaner. Your crank case vent hoses are improperly routed. Switch to the Screamin' Eagle part, or route the vent hoses up under the gas tank, then down to under the battery. Remember to plug up the holes in the air cleaner. This is a common problem with Mikuni and S&S carbs on '92 or later evolution motors.
Throttle sticks, particularly when turning sharply at slow speeds. Throttle cables are improperly routed. Straighten them out.
Some guy with a ZX-11 just blew you off the highway. Welcome to reality. Take comfort in the knowledge that women hate crotch rockets. Evolution will have its way in the end.


All About OIL
(more then you ever watned to know,.......)

Why do we need oil?

We put oil in our engines to serve several purposes. First, obviously, oil acts as a lubricant. If your engine is operating correctly, there is almost no metal to metal contact - everything is riding on a thin film of oil. However, oil has several other important jobs to do. Oil circulates throughout your engine, and cools parts that cannot get near a water jacket. For example, it's becoming common in sport bikes to spray oil on the underside of the piston to cool it. There are no water jackets at all in your transmission. Motorcycle transmissions are oil cooled.
Your piston rings do not do a perfect job of sealing. Some combustion by products will slip past the rings into the engine. This can be little particles of carbon. Remember, diamond is carbon that was combined under heat and pressure. These little carbon particles can be quite damaging to your engine. Another job of your oil is to hold these particles in suspension until the oil filter can grab them. Also, if your gasoline has sulpher in it (it does), this sulpher can react with water and oxygen to make sulphuric acid. This is some stuff that is seriously bad for your engine. Your oil has special ingredients in it called buffers to neutralize acids. Finally, your engine can get internal build ups of tars, waxes, and other gunk. Your oil has solvents to try to dissolve this stuff and get and keep your engine clean.


Where Oil Comes From


Most of the bio-mass on earth is single cell plants and microscopic critters in the ocean. When these die, they sink to the bottom. Often they fall into a deep crevasse or trench, where they may become covered up by an underwater landslide. After a couple hundred million years of high pressure and no air, the critters get squished into oil. So, oil isn't really "dead dinosaurs," but Sinclair Oil stations just wouldn't be the same with a picture of algie on their sign. Today we like to find this stuff, pump it to the surface, and burn it.


The oil we pump to the surface is a mixture of gasoline, kerosene, light weight lubricating oil, motor oil, gear oil, tars, paraffins, waxes, asphalt, sand, dirt, organic stuff (called aromatics) and the occasional dead cockroach. We call this stuff crude oil, for reasons that I think are now self-explanitory. The oil companies have the singularly smelly job of separating the crude oil into its component parts. A hundred years ago we would just heat the stuff up in a complicated still, and catch stuff that boiled off at different temperatures. Fifty years ago we started processing the crude oil with clay and solvents to do a more precise job. Today, we use very complicated systems where we heat the crude oil to precise temperatures, put it under high pressure, and bubble hydrogen and other stuff through it. The idea of all this is to try to get pure chemicals out of this stuff that we just found laying around in the desert.
Most motor oil has a lot of different chemicals in it with very different properties. The temperature at which the oil will start burning, called the flash point, is determined by the chemicals that burn at the lowest temperature. The higher the flash point, the more stable the oil is at high temperatures, and the less oil your engine will burn. The pour point is the temperature at which the oil stops flowing like a liquid. The lower this number is, the better protected your engine is when it's cold. The thickness of the oil, that is the resistance the oil offers to motion, is called the viscosity. The viscosity depends on all of the various chemicals in the oil and how they react to each other and to heat. Importantly, as the oil heats up, it thins out, that is the viscosity goes down. The better the oil is at retaining its viscosity at high temperatures, the higher the viscosity index. All of these properties depend on all the chemicals in the oil. If you could get only one precise kind of molecule out of the raw oil, you could do a lot better than you can do with a mix.


Refining Oil


The oil product you buy starts as a base oil. The base oil makes up about 85% of the oil you buy. The base oil can be refined from crude oil, chemically (synthetically) manufactured, or a blended combination.
Base oils that are refined from crude oil are colorless and pretty much odorless and are sold to the public as mineral oil. The crude oil is a combination of a lot of different chemicals, ranging from light gasoline types of fuels to waxes and tars. When you heat the crude oil, the gasoline and diesel oil boil off pretty early. Unfortunately, the mineral oil, paraffin, wax and tar molecules are all hooked up with each other, and it's not so easy to separate them from each other. Also, the crude oil contains the aforementioned aromatics, which are quite bad in your oil: they are very reactive, and when oxidized they cause all kinds of problems. Refining oil means trying to remove the bad stuff, while leaving the good stuff. The more bad stuff we remove, the better the oil works.
The simplest way to refine oil is to process it with a clay, a material a lot like kitty litter. The clay will soak up much of the aromatics and sulpher and nitrogen compounds. Then, you dilute the oil with solvent like MEK (Methyl-Ethyl-Keytone) and/or Toluene (that's the stuff in model airplane glue that's so popular with teenagers), and freeze the oil. The good stuff will mostly stay liquid, and the waxes will solidify and can then be filtered out. This clay-solvent refining process has been around since about 1930.
Oils refined with the clay-solvent process contain a fair amount of paraffin and wax. These molecules cause several problems in an engine: they sometimes fall out of solution, leading to buildups in your engine that must be cleaned out somehow. Also, as these molecules get hot they thin out quite a bit, much more than mineral oil, so they make the oil's high temperature performance rather poor. Finally, at low temperatures the waxes and paraffins thicken the oil so much that you really couldn't call it a lubricant. If you're curious about this, buy a cheap quart of straight 30wt oil and put it in your refrigerator or freezer over night. You'll be amazed at how thick it becomes. More than half the motor oil sold in N.America in 2004 is made from base oils refined with the clay- solvent process (I like to call it the Kitty-litter and Kerosene refining method), but I don't think this is the type of oil you want to put into an engine you love. These oils are roughly 85% good stuff (oil) and 15% bad stuff (paraffin and wax). To put this in perspective, think of taking a gallon of really excellent oil, and melting a 12" dinner candle into it.
In 1959, Chevron developed a new method of refining base oils called Hydrocracking, where you process the raw oil at high temperatures and pressures with hydrogen and various catalysts. In Hydrocracking, many of the paraffin and wax molecules are broken up into mineral oil molecules, which increases the performance of the base oil dramatically. Also, far more of the aromatics and sulpher and nitrogen compounds are removed from the oil.
Since 1990, Chevron's process has been improved. In 1993, Chevron invented the Hydro-Isomerization process, where wax and paraffin molecules are reshaped into useful lubricants instead of simply being broken up into smaller molecules. By increasing the severity of the hydrocracking process, increasing the temperature and pressure and processing time to process more and more of the unwanted wax and paraffin molecules, the oil's low and high temperature performance and resistance to oxidation can be improved to the point where the distinction between mineral oils and synthetics becomes blurred. Chevron now licenses this process, called Iso- DeWaxing. This process of oil refining is becoming more and more popular, and in 2004 accounts for almost half of all base oils. Iso- DeWaxing not only produces much higher-performance oil, but also allows you to start with lower quality crude oil, making us less dependent on the few countries that happen to produce the purest crude oils.


Group II and Group III oils


Base oils made with the Iso-DeWaxing process are called Group II, and are significantly more pure and have higher performance than Group I base oils. Chevron Delo 400, Mobil Delvac 1300, and Shell Rotella are made from pure Group II oils. Motor oils made with Group-II base oils leave far fewer wax and tar deposits in your engine, and have much better low and high temperature performance than Group I oils. The resulting oils are roughly 97% good stuff (oil) and 3% bad stuff (paraffin and wax). We just cut that 12" dinner candle down to about 2½".
The high and low temperature performance of oils are described by the Viscosity Index. The VI tells us how much the oil thins out as it gets hot. Oils with higher VIs maintain their viscosity better at high temperatures. If the VI is 90 to 100, we call it Group II; if it's refined to a VI of 110 to 115 we call it Group IIa. In the late '90s, an even more involved process was invented yielding base oils with VIs over 120. These base oils are called Group III or "unconventional base oils." The higher the VI, the fewer additives are necessary to achieve the required viscosity. For example fewer additives are needed to turn a Group III base oil into 10w-40 than are required for Group II base oils. Group III oils have essentially no paraffin and wax in them, at least as compared to the 12" dinner candle per gallon in Group I oils.


Group III oils have properties approaching or equaling synthetics, so long as the temperature is above about 40°. Group III based oils are often claimed to not perform as well as synthetics in a couple ways: their low temperature performance is not nearly as good, it is sometimes claimed on the basis of the "ball bearing test" that they offer lower impact resistance, and since their flash point is slightly lower it is claimed that they burn off more easily. However, most modern engines are water-cooled, so it's hard to see how the slightly better flash points of the synthetics ever come into play. I personally don't make a habit of dropping a handful of ball bearing into my oil pan, so I'm not completely clear on what the impact tests mean to me. The low temperature performance of the Group III oils can be improved enormously by blending in a relatively small amount of synthetic base stock and other additives.
Since about 2000, it has become possible at moderate extra cost to process Group II and Group III oils so that their performance below 32° nearly matches the performance of traditional synthetics. Because of this, the oil companies found they could now produce relatively inexpensive 5w-30 and 0w-20 oils. Car companies were quick to see that such oils would help reduce the fuel consumption of their vehicles by a percent or so, which is important as Detroit finds themselves selling more trucks than cars. So, these "fuel-efficient" oils are quickly becoming the factory recommendation in most cars. It's not at all clear that these new low- viscosity oils lead to the longest engine life, but it is clear that these oils help the car companies meet their CAFE federally- mandated fuel economy standards.


In the late 1990s, Castrol started selling an oil made from Group III base oil and called it SynTec Full Synthetic. Mobil sued Castrol, asserting that this oil was not synthetic, but simply a highly refined petroleum oil, and therefore it was false advertising to call it synthetic. In 1999, Mobil lost their lawsuit. It was decided that the word "synthetic" was a marketing term and referred to properties, not to production methods or ingredients. Castrol continues to make SynTec out of Group III base oils, that is highly purified mineral oil with most all of the cockroach bits removed.
Shortly after Mobil lost their lawsuit, most oil companies started reformulating their synthetic oils to use Group III base stocks instead of PAOs or diester stocks as their primary component. Most of the "synthetic oil" you can buy today is actually mostly made of this highly-distilled and purified dino-juice called Group III oil. Group III base oils cost about half as much as the synthetics. By using a blend of mostly Group III oils and a smaller amount of "true" synthetics, the oil companies can produce a product that has nearly the same properties as the "true" synthetics, and nearly the same cost as the Group III oil. The much more expensive traditional synthetics are now available in their pure forms only in more expensive and harder to obtain oils. To the best of my knowledge, Delvac-1, AMSOil, Redline, and Motul 5100 are the only oils made from pure traditional synthetics.


Synthetic Oils

Synthetic oils were originally designed for the purpose of having a very pure base oil with excellent properties. By starting from scratch and building up your oil molecules from little pieces, you can pretty much guarantee that every molecule in the oil is just like every other molecule, and therefore the properties are exactly what you designed in, not compromised by impurities from dead cockroach shells or whatever. Synthetics were thus originally a reaction to the relatively poor refining processes available from about 1930 to about 1990. The original synthetics were designed for the Army Air Force in WW II. They simply could not make their high- performance turbo-charged radial engines stay alive on the available motor oils of the time.
One process for making synthetic base oils is to start with a chemical called an olefin, and make new molecules by attaching them to each other in long chains, hence "poly." The primary advantage of Poly-Alpha-Olefin "PAO" base oil is that all the molecules in the base oil are pretty much identical, so it's easy to get the base oil to behave exactly as you like. PAOs are called Group IV base oils.
Until about 2000, these PAO base oils had an enormous advantage over mineral base oils in low temperature performance and in resistance to oxidation, which is critical in keeping the oil from forming acids. However, modern group-III oils can nearly match the performance of PAOs at about half the price. Because of this, PAO based oils are rapidly disappearing. There are new processes being investigated which may significantly cut the cost of producing PAOs, and make them an important component of oil again.
Another type of base oil is made from refined and processed esters and is called Group V. Esters start life as fatty acids in plants and animals, which are then chemically combined into esters, diesters, and polyesters. Your vegetarian girlfriend should love that. Group V base stocks are the most expensive of all to produce. However, the esters are polar molecules and have very significant solvent properties - an ester base oil all by itself will do a very decent job of keeping your engine clean. So, people who are serious about making a superior oil will usually mix some Group V oils into their base stock.


PolyEster (RedLine) oils have by far the best performance in extreme high temperatures, and are the preferred oil in old "air- cooled" Nortons. I put "air-cooled" in parenthesis as one could also call these engines "prayer- cooled." The Norton 750 commando will destroy a Group I oil fill in 75 miles on a 100 degree day. No kidding. The Brits really did not understand until about 1990 that some of us live in places where the temperatures get over 80 degrees and cities are more than 10 miles apart. If you love those old British twins, you need to find a good supply for RedLine oil.
Finally, there are new chemicals emerging which are made from liquefied natural gas called GTL (gas to liquid) base oils. These will be called Group III+, and many people think they will become an important part of the oils you buy by 2010. These GTL base oils have natural VIs of 140 or more, meaning for most applications they won't require any VII package at all. Natural gas is primarily made up of only one type of molecule, so the refining is already done for you. Most oil wells throw off a lot of natural gas. In many cases, it's more expensive to transport this gas to a large city than the gas is worth, so it's just burned off. For example, Iran burns off enough natural gas each day to power their entire country, electricity, cars, ships, airplanes, the whole thing. So the next time you hear Iran's nuclear reactors are purely for peaceful production of energy, you can wonder like the rest of us why a country that burns off more than their entire energy needs must spend tens of billions of dollars developing alternative energy sources. Well, anyway, natural gas is a chemical looking for a use. All you have to do is chemically attach these molecules to each other to turn them into quite pure oil stocks.
"Semi-synthetics" are oils which are a blend of petroleum oil and no more than 30% synthetic oil. If the manufacturer adds no more than 30% synthetic oil and does not change the additive package, they do not have to recertify the oil. These days, since everyone has agreed that Group III base oils are "synthetic," I'm not sure "semi-synthetic" means anything at all. The manufacturers love this stuff: it costs about 15% more to make the oil, and they get to charge about double. I don't recommend semi-synthetics. Save your money and take your kids to McDonalds.

Ssynthetics offer real advantages when your engine is very cold and when your engine is very hot. The viscosity numbers shown above are at 212°F. At 32°F the PAOs and Diesters have about one third the viscosity of the mineral oils, meaning they pump through your engine three times better. Since about 75% of all the wear on your engine happens in the first five minutes after you start it up, synthetics offer an advantage in significantly reducing engine wear.


Making Multi-Grade Oil

A simple standard oil, for example a pure base stock, would be a single weight, like 30 weight. This pure oil would have no detergent additives to keep the engine clean. This oil would be relatively thick and difficult to pour at room temperature, and would thin out as the motor heated up. On a very cold day, say 10° below freezing, this oil would thicken to the point where you could not start your motor, and if you did, the oil pump could not pump the oil around to protect your motor. It used to be that to start their diesel trucks in the winter, truckers would add kerosene to their oil to thin it out. Then they had to hope the kerosene would burn off before it did any real damage. Today, synthetic oils that are rated 0W-40 flow normally down to 65° below zero and remove the need for engine block heaters or adding kerosene.
An oil sold as 10w-40 is no thicker than 10 weight oil under Winter (10w) conditions, meaning below freezing. The 40 means it is no thinner than 40 weight oil at 212° Fahrenheit. So, the first number tells us the performance of the oil at or below the temperature of freezing water, and the second number tells us the performance at the temperature of boiling water. The chemicals added to the oil to accomplish this are called Viscosity Index Improvers (VIIs).


To make a 10w-40 oil, the manufacturer would start out with a 10 weight oil as the base stock. All by itself, this oil would thin out so much at normal operating temperatures that the oil film would be useless. So, they add these very special very long molecules, the VIIs. The VII molecules are as much as 1000 times as long as an oil molecule. The VII molecules curl up in a little ball at room temperature, but as the temperature gets higher they uncurl and stretch out, like a cat sleeping in the sunlight. The more stretched out the molecule is, the more it impedes the normal flow of the oil, thus raising the effective viscosity. Now, this sounds just a little too good to be true. Well, there are two catches: first, these molecules are not lubricants, so the more of them that you add the less oil you have sitting around lubricating things. Secondly, these VII molecules can be broken into pieces by various pressures and forces, like being squeezed through the transmission gears in a motorcycle or the hydraulic valves in a diesel engine. Every time a VII molecule gets broken, the oil loses some of its high temperature viscosity. Synthetic oils made from pure PAOs and/or Diesters typically have very few VIIs, so these oils are far less subject to viscosity breakdown due to shearing of the VII package. As a result, synthetics are far more stable in a motorcycle engine.
10w-30 oil increases its viscosity at high temperatures by a factor of three, which requires a significant amount of these VII molecules. 10w-40 oil increases its high temperature viscosity by a factor of four, which requires even more even longer molecules. 20w-50, which sounds a lot like 10w-40, only increases its high temperature viscosity by a factor of two and a half, so it requires fewer of these molecules than even 10w-30. 15w-40 also increases its high temperature viscosity by about two and a half, so this oil is also substantially more stable than 10w-40. Most passenger car oils today use inexpensive VII molecules that break apart relatively easily. Conversely, most diesel engine oil VIIs are chosen from more expensive chemicals that are more shear stable, since an oil change in a large diesel is expected to last for 15,000 to 150,000 miles.
One way to judge the VII content of your oil is to read the VI, the Viscosity Index, at the manufacturer's web page. The base oils all have similar VIs to start with, so generally speaking, the higher the VI in the blended oil, the more VIIs are present, and the less suitable the oil is for motorcycle usage. John Evans did just such a survey of Valvoline, Chevron, Exxon, Quaker State, Citgo, and Conoco oils. He found that the 5w-30 oils all had VI's in the range of 158-162; the 5w-20 oils had VIs of 148-154; the 10w-40 oils had VIs of 147 to 150; 10w-30 oils had VIs of 134 to 139; and 20w-50 oils had VIs of 120 to 125.


In 1994, Dr. John Woolum tested the viscosity of several 10w-40 oils in his motorcycle. He found that all of the petroleum oils had lost highly significant amounts of viscosity within 1500 miles. Only Mobil-1 held up in his test. I have personally tested Delvac-1 synthetic in my ST1300. It was 5w-40 when I put it in, and 5w-25 9,200 miles later. By 1500 miles, the petroleum oils Dr. Woolum tested were at 10w-25 equivalent. By contrast, Dr. Woolum tested a petroleum oil in his Honda Accord. After 3600 miles, the 10w-40 oil was 10w-37 equivalent. Motorcycles are indeed significantly harder on their oils than cars. Based on this result and the VI numbers above, it would seem that 10w-40, 5w-20, and 5w-30 oils cannot be safely used in motorcycles for more than 1,000 to 1,500 miles.
You might ask, if these viscosity index improvers are so expensive and fragile, why have them? Why not just run a straight 30 weight oil? If you live somewhere where the temperature never changes, like Maui, maybe that's a good idea. However, if your engine will ever see temperatures below 60 degrees or above 100 degrees, it's important to have a multi-weight oil. Multi-weight oils offer far superior protection during a cold engine start on a cold morning, and they also offer superior protection if your engine oil ever gets above about 230°. Of course, some old timers will tell you, "I always ran straight 50 weight oil. Yup. That was the stuff. All these new-fangled fancy oils, forget it, it's just marketing hype. All you need is straight 50 weight." Well, that may have been true when motorcycles were 1500ccs and made 18hp. Today, when you can casually buy an engine that makes 150hp per liter, things are just a little different.
Viscosity is not actually measured in "weights", but rather in units called "Stokes." If you're a famous scientist they name a unit after you, except for poor Albert who is considered famous enough all by himself. Stokes was a guy who worked on fluid flow. For oils, we use a hundredth of a Stoke, called a centi-Stoke, abbreviated cSt. "Weights" are a classification invented by the American Petroleum Institute (API). A different unit of viscosity, the centi-Poise, is used at very low and very high temperatures. 10 weight oil refers to oils within a range of viscosities, so two different brands of 10 weight oil might actually be quite different. 75 weight gear oil is actually about the same viscosity as 10 weight motor oil. Don't ask me why, I'm not a petroleum engineer; although some might argue that I do belong in an institution.
The "High Shear" viscosity number is the one that actually correlates with oil film thickness on your bearings at operating temperature. You can see that, based on this, really there's only three choices for oil: 20; 30 or light 40; heavy 40 to 60. The cranking viscosities above show you the temperature at which you can start your engine safely. 20w oils are only safe down to about 28°f. 5W Rotella or Mobil-1 SUV oil are safer at -13°f than 20W is at 28°f.


Motor Oil Additive Packages

In addition to the base stock oil, oil manufacturers add what's called an additive package. Additive packages are typically not made up by the oil companies, but rather by a few companies that then sell them. Additive packages contain several different chemicals with several different purposes. Here's what the additive package is supposed to do for you:
One component is detergents and dispersants. These chemicals are designed to hold onto foreign particles and chemicals in your engine, and sometimes break them into smaller pieces. These foreign chemicals may be combustion by products, or junk that slipped past your air filter. If the particles are large enough, then they will eventually be grabbed by the oil filter and taken out of circulation.
Another component is buffers. This is typically calcium, magnesium, or boron. These chemicals are present to neutralize any acids which form in your engine. Acids are bad for your bearings and other important thingies.
Your additive package will include solvents to break up deposits of tar and wax. In a premium oil, some of the base stock will be Group V diesters to help the solvent package. Where did the tar and wax come from? Remember, when you opened up your $1.09 quart of Spiffo-Magic SuperLube, you got oil, additives, tar, paraffin, wax, asphalt, ash, aromatics (sounds like perfume when they say that, doesn't it?), and the occasional stray bit of cockroach shell.
Another component is emergency lubricants. This is typically zinc, phosphorous, and molybdenum. These chemicals are present in case your oil film completely breaks down, due to extreme temperatures or pressures. These chemicals are supposed to be a last resort defense against metal to metal contact in your engine. Oil companies are cutting back on zinc and phosphorous, as these metals are hard on your catalytic converters. They're substituting molybdenum disulfide, which lowers friction and improves gas mileage. It also causes problems for people with wet clutches, that is most motorcycles.
The Viscosity Index Improvers are part of the additive package. As we learned above, these chemicals are present to make your oil stay thick at high temperatures.
Finally, corrosion inhibitors. These chemicals are supposed to keep your oil from oxidizing or otherwise breaking down due to time or contamination. Yes, it's true, now even your oil has to take antioxidants.
API Oil Standards
The additive package is made to make the finished oil product meet one of the certifications. There are two classes of certification: S, for Service, and C, for commercial. The
certification standards are maintained by the API, the American Petroleum Institute. Over the years, the API has improved and changed these standards. The most current S standards are SL and SM. These standards differ from earlier standards like SH by lowering phosphorus to improve catalytic converter life, and increasing molybdenum to lower internal engine friction and improve gas mileage. Phosphorus was originally added to oils to help protect high pressure areas like cam lobes and crankshaft bearings, so lowering phosphorus levels is a compromise of lower pollution, perhaps at the expense of engine life. Molybdenum is added to improve fuel economy due to the federal CAFE (Corporate Average Fuel Economy) standards, thereby helping GM and Ford keep selling large V8s to the American public, but can perhaps cause problems in engines with wet clutches. Most S additive packages are also designed to be inexpensive so that the resulting oil can be sold at a low price. SL and SM oils are both low phosphorus; SM oils which are labeled "energy conserving" are high molybdenum.
About every three years or so, the API releases a new S standard. The new standard supercedes the old standard, so, for example, the SH standard included extra high temperature deposit protection due to the popularity of turbo engines in the early '90s; SJ oils did not have this high temperature protection, as that portion of the standard was dropped. This means that for some cars, oils made to the older rating systems are sometimes better than oils made to the new standards. SH certified oils are probably the best of the S oils for motorcycles and high- performance sports cars, but you pretty much can't buy them anymore. Oils which are labeled "energy conserving" are bad for any vehicle with a wet clutch, meaning most motorcycles. Essentially all 0w-20, 5w-30, and 10w-30 oils are energy conserving and should not be used in your bike.
Most people blending S type automotive oils are buying their base oils from a company who is most likely using the Chevron Iso- DeWaxing process to make their oils, then buying their additive package from another company that is highly constrained by the API standards. The cost of getting an API certification for a single S motor oil formulation is from $125,000 to $300,000. The cost for C certification is $275,000 to $500,000. Once testing is complete, the oil can be licensed for $825 per year, plus a small royalty fee per gallon sold for all gallons over one million. The length of time between new specifications is now approximately 2 to 3 years, which does not allow a great deal of time to recover testing costs.
Additive companies, such as Lubrizol, Ethyl, Infinium and Oronite develop licensed additive formulas that they offer to oil companies to re-license. It is inexpensive to re-license one of these formulas, and the majority of oil companies choose to do this to avoid the costs associated with testing. Thus, the same chemistry is being sold under many brand names. Because of this, S type automotive oils have pretty much turned into a commodity. Although the people selling a particular brand may wish you to believe their oil is superior to any other, in fact if it's got the API seal on it, it's probably about the same as any other similarly rated automotive oil.
Commercial (Diesel) Oil
The additive packages for C (commercial) certification are designed to promote engine life. The additive packages for C rated oils contain extra buffers and detergents to keep the engine clean and free of acids. C rated oils are far better than S oils at holding and dispersing combustion byproducts and other contaminants, and at not becoming acidic. Traditionally these oils are primarily used in diesel motors, which are very expensive and are expected to last a million miles or more. When an engine rebuild costs $10,000 - $15,000 and puts you out of work for a week or three, you don't mind paying a bit more for your oil. The C certification tests have been largely developed by Mack, Caterpillar, Detroit and Cummins to provide the additives necessary to keep these engines running a long time. The latest commercial certification is CI-4 Plus, which includes extra protection for high temperature high revving motors. Since it's designed for diesel motors, they don't care about no stinkin' catalytic thingies, and CAFE is a place where you get a cup of joe and a donut. CI-4 Plus differs from CI-4 with higher detergent requirements and better sheer stability. The shear stability is exactly what motorcycles need due to running the engine oil through the transmission.
Although C standards are changed every few years, the older standards are enhanced, not superceded. So, newer higher rated C oils are simply better than older lower rated oils.
Although few car owners test their oil regularly, most large trucking companies routinely do oil analysis on their diesel trucks. Used oils are checked for viscosity breakdown, for detergent and dispersant function, and for metal contamination that would indicate engine wear. C oils that don't measure up are quickly run off the market place. To prevent engine wear, the best strategy is to keep deposits off the pistons, rings, and bearings. Therefore, diesel oils typically contain half again more detergents, double the dispersants, and a much more expensive and robust VII package than S type oils. If you go to an auto parts store, convenience store, or grocery store, you'll see that there are dozens of brands of automotive oils, all claiming to be the best. If you look at truck stops, you'll see there are only a very few diesel oils sold, typically Rotella, Delo, and Delvac. Trucking companies find what works for them and won't switch. They're not interested in saving a dollar a gallon on some unknown oil.
The C certified oils are all also S certified, just as some S certified oils are also C certified. The best C certified oils are SG, usually SH, sometimes SJ. I don't know of a C certified oil which is SL. The best S certified oils are CF, which is a relatively old and obsolete C standard, and does not include the tests for high speed high temperature engines that CG, CH, and CI have. In fact, CF oil does not meet the current factory standards for Volkswagen or Mercedes diesel passenger cars.
The API charges serious money to test an oil and certify it. If the API really tested the oil in their independent lab, and the oil company pays their royalties on time, the oil company gets to display the API seal on their product. Some smaller companies don't pay the API to test their oils and certify them. In these cases, you won't see the API seal, instead you'll see some words like "Meets or exceeds all manufacturers warranty requirements. API Service SJ, SL, CF." It's up to you to decide if you trust this manufacturer to actually test their oil themselves and tell you the truth about the results.
JASO certified Oil
Another institute that certifies oils is called the Japanese Automotive Standards Organization, JASO. One wonders why this Japanese organization has an English name. . . In any case, they have two classifications for motorcycles, "MA" and "MB." MA is the one you want. MB is like the API SL category, it's got all those nasty friction reducing chemicals that may scare your clutch into misbehaving. Again, there is an official JASO seal if the oil has been independently tested. The seal is a rectangle; in the upper quarter of the rectangle will be a serial number, and the lower three quarters will just have the letters MA. If the oil manufacturer did their own testing, instead you'll see just words like "Meets or exceeds JASO MA standards."
Some manufacturers recommend JASO-MA certified oil. AMSOil and Golden Spectro are JASO-MA certified. Some people consider this important. Interestingly, although Honda recommends a JASO-MA oil, Honda oil is not JASO-MA certified. Mostly JASO-MA is pretty much equivalent to SH. In fact, the JASO spec is mostly a reaction to the decrease in zinc-phosphates in SJ and SL oils, and the added molybdenum disulphide in energy conserving oils. Personally, I don't care about JASO standards - they're really not on my radar.
Racing Oil, NASCAR oil, etc.
Some manufacturers also sell something they call "racing oil." Normally, this is actually fairly decent oil, but you should not be mislead into thinking racing cars use the best oils for you. Race drivers start their engine one time only, warm it up slowly and carefully, then run the engine near or at the red line for a couple hours. 100 to 500 miles later, they completely tear down the engine and replace all the worn parts, the oil, and the oil filter. If you think you might like to go more than 500 miles between major engine rebuilds, you might consider that your use of your engine is quite different from Michael Andretti's.
Why do we change our oil?
We're now in a position to discuss this. Your oil is a combination of one or more base oils and a complicated additive package. The base oils will actually last as long as your motorcycle - many hundreds of thousands of miles, several years. The reason we change our oil is the additive package wears out. The buffers get used up neutralizing acids. The detergents and dispersants get used up clinging to gunk that's too small for your oil filter to pick out. The VII package gets shredded by your transmission. You could imagine a device that pulled out your oil, gave it a very thorough cleaning, replaced the buffers, detergents, and VII molecules, and put it back into your engine. Sort of a motor oil dialysis machine. However, in a country that has Texas and Alaska, in a world where oil is $30 / barrel, this makes no sense. So, we dump out our entire four quarts of oil because 3% of the oil is used up. It's really just a cheap way of getting a bunch of contaminants out of our engine. This is why it does make sense to recycle oil: if you can process the oil hundreds of gallons at a time, you can separate out the base stocks economically. If you use synthetic oils and bring your used oil to a recycling collection point, you can feel especially good: a bunch of school buses and city buses are going to get an extra little kick in their base oil because of you. In fact, you can tell your wife that's why you need this exotic, expensive synthetic oil: it's solely out of your concern for the children. If everybody used Spiffo-Magic SuperLube the recycled oil would be junk, and in no time flat the school buses would all break down and the kids would have to walk to school, 23 miles, in the snow, uphill both ways. Why, in no time flat the kids would lose weight, improve their cardiovascular conditioning, and just generally be more healthy and have more energy. What a nightmare!
Choosing an Oil for Your Motorcycle
There are a few special problem areas for motorcycle oil. Most motorcycles have wet clutches, which means the motor oil runs through the clutch. If the motor oil has too much molybdenum in it, there are fears that the clutch can start slipping. No one I know has ever actually had this happen to them, but the warnings are all over your owners' manual and the oil companies' web pages. On the back of all certified oil cans is a circular stamp with the certification. Avoid oils that say "energy conserving" in the bottom half of the donut. These oils contain friction modifier additives that could cause clutch slipping over time. Essentially all 0w-20, 5w-30 and 10w-30 oils are energy conserving, and should not be used in your motorcycle.
Most motorcycles run the engine oil through the transmission, and the transmission gears are very hard on the oil's VII package. This means that over a couple thousand miles, the oil's viscosity can break down. Standard car oils are only good for typically 1500 miles before they've lost about half of their viscosity. Remember, 10w-40 oils contain a lot of VIIs which tend to shear in your transmission, so I believe 10w-40 oils should be avoided. You can't use 10w-30 because of the friction modifiers. This doesn't leave much. Commercial 15w-40 oils are a good choice, because they have relatively few VIIs which are the more expensive shear-stable sort. Synthetics typically don't contain much of a VII package, so shear is not as big an issue with them.
Some people use their motorcycles only sporadically. This means the oil can all drain completely into the sump, leaving no protective film on the bearings. The first start after a long period of non-use can be particularly hard on an engine. Film strength is very important if you're a sporadic rider.
There are several key advantages to using Synthetic Oils:
Synthetic oils have a higher viscosity index than mineral base oils. Synthetics have better resistance to thinning at high temperatures and thickening at low temperatures. Since synthetics have little or no VIIs, synthetics last longer in service without radical changes in viscosity.
Synthetics have a much higher film strength than petroleum oils, so it takes a lot longer for the oil to drain completely off your bearings and into your sump.
Diester synthetics are polar molecules with solvent properties which dissolve residues and combustion byproducts.
Choosing a Break-In Oil for Your Motorcycle
The theory that synthetic oils should not be used during break in is the same as the theory that your engine will break in better if you use synthetic oil but add a dinner candle to your four quarts of engine oil. Frankly, I find this theory, um, questionable. Oh, hell, laughable. Corvettes and Porsches come from the factory with Mobil-1 in their engines. Remember, these engineers have designed world-champion engines for F1, Indy, Le Mans 24 hours, etc.
There's a lot of mythology surrounding break-in oil. It's simply not the case that synthetic oils are more "slippery" than conventional oils. Also, break-in of a modern engine is completely different than break-in of an engine made before about 1980. Modern engines, by comparison to something made in the '60s, are pretty much already broken in from the factory due to the fact that today we hold much tighter machining tolerances. The exception, of course, would be the Ural, a motorcycle made on a production line unmodified since about 1935.
I recommend you change your break-in oil at 75 to 100 miles, 100 to 150 kilometers. Your engine does shed a fair amount of metal particles in the first 20-50 miles, and I really can't understand why you would want this stuff floating around your bearings for the first 600 miles, 1000 kilometers.
I put Shell Rotella "synthetic" (87% group III) oil in my DL650 at 75 miles. It burns no oil, gets great gas mileage, and runs great. I recommend you switch to a good synthetic at your first oil change.
Recommendations
I get a lot of email, "My buddy has 283,000 miles on his Yamazuki 867 Nintruder, and he's never used anything but 35¢ per quart grocery store oil changed every 48,000 miles." Here's the truth: modern Japanese engines are amazingly well engineered and can tolerate a surprising amount of abuse. However, putting automotive oils in your motorcycle and running them for more than 1500 miles is abuse. I abuse my motorcycle enough with the way I ride them without adding on the abuse of using cheap oil that will break down in 1500 miles.
The question of which oil is best is not settled. We know what we want: the oil is inexpensive, lasts a long time, and makes our engine never break. There are various articles in MCN which do a chemical analysis and make recommendations based on the content of the additive package. I am very skeptical of this, as the utility of these chemicals at various levels is never tested, and the base oils are not tested. There are a couple articles that actually test for viscosity breakdown, and standard petroleum oils don't do very well. Consumer Reports once did a 4,500,000 mile test of oils in NYC taxicabs, however these engines only start once per day and are water-cooled, so they mostly avoid cold start-ups and overheating. If you're using a standard automotive petroleum oil in your motorcycle and running it for more than 1,500 miles, you are taking your chances. By 1,500 miles, the VII additives are pretty much all broken down, and the oil has therefore thinned out enormously.
Your engine will not explode if you use Spiffo-Magic Superlube for 4,000 miles. Your engine will not explode if you never use synthetic oils. However, any of these choices puts additional strain on your engine. You buy $65 tires for your car that last 45,000 miles, and $100 tires for your bike that last 8,000 miles. Why on earth would you try to save $5 on each oil change to buy an oil that can't hold up in a motorcycle engine? My DL650 runs its oil through the transmission, I run off-road (extreme environment due to silicon blow-by at the piston rings), I'm pretty much always revving my engine at 5500 rpm or more (red line on the Corvette, the one that comes with Mobil-1 as factory fill). I stress my little engine enough without making it use dinner candles as lubricants. Nor do I wish to make the bearings run in 10w-40 oil that's broken down to 10w-15 oil.

Some people should, in my opinion, clearly use a synthetic oil. You should be using a synthetic if:
you routinely start your engine in temperatures under 40°f, 5°c.
you live somewhere where it gets below -35 degrees, and you want to start your car. In this case you must use either Mobil-1 0w-30 or the Canadian 0w-40 Rotella. If you're riding your bike in -40 degrees, I want a picture just before you die.
you leave your vehicle sit unused for months at a time.
you are unable or unwilling to change your oil within 2000 miles.
you have one of these new 4-stroke MX bikes. These MX bikes hold only about one quart of oil, all of them have marginal cooling systems, and if there's a more severe use of an engine than MX, I don't want to be physically present when it happens.
If it's below -55c, -65f, stay home. Really.
Three synthetics stand out from the rest:
Mobil Delvac , Mobil-1 SUV and Shell Rotella T Synthetic. These are C certified industrial oils meant to be purchased in 55 gallon drums and used by companies which run a lot of diesel engines. The Commercial oils, as discussed above, have more expensive additive packages which are meant to prolong engine life and oil life, as opposed to being cheap to buy at Pep Boys and helping the car companies meet their CAFE requirements. These oils meet all the automobile requirements through SJ, and also have extra additives to help pick up gunk in the engine, to keep the oil from becoming acidic, and to maintain the oil's viscosity over a long time. In fact, the manufacturers talk about their oil's viscosity resistance to shear forces - exactly what a motorcycle needs. Shell Rotella-T Synthetic is available at Wal-Mart for $13 / gallon, so I consider this the motor oil of choice. Delvac-1 is very hard to get in the west - there are only two places in all of California where you can buy it. Mobil-1 SUV is readily available everywhere for about $4.50 / quart. When used with the correct filters, these oils are certified for 50,000 mile oil change intervals, and are frequently used for 100,000 to 150,000 miles in diesel long-haul trucks. Now, before you get all excited about the possibilities, you must also keep in mind that the diesel engines don't run their oil through their transmission, and the large diesels all have two oil filters, one a normal paper filter, and the other a 1 or 2 micron filter that catches pretty much everything. We don't have these secondary ultra-fine oil filters on our bikes. Also, the large diesel engines hold eleven gallons of oil - a oil and filter change costs these guys $350 if they use synthetics, $150 if they don't.
The synthetic diesel oils are 5w-40 oils. Some people have expressed concern to me that this doesn't match the 10w-40 specification for their engine. The 5w rating only applies when the oil is cold, below about 80° f. Once your oil and engine are up to operating temperature, these are 40 weight oils, just like all the others. In cold conditions, under 40° f, the 5w oils are much better for your engine than a 10w oil.
AMSOil, Motul 5100, Mobil-1 MX4T, Mobil-1, Redline, and Golden Spectro are apparently made with high quality additive packages, similar to the commercial synthetics. Personally, I would find it reassuring if these oils were CI-4 certified. However, many motorcyclists have used these oils for years with good results. They are all fine oils, and perfectly acceptable to run in your motorcycle. They are a bit on the pricey side. Delvac-1, AMSOil, Redline and Motul synthetics contain no petroleum oils - they're pure synthetic. To the best of my knowledge, all other synthetic oils contain some amount of Group III oil.
Mobil-1 automotive oils all contain small amounts of moly - about 100 to 200 ppm. This can cause clutch slippage in some motorcycles. I've only heard of this being a problem in Honda Shadows.
I'm sometimes asked if it's ok to blend your own oils. Yes, it is. Oils are all made out of pretty much the same chemicals, and nothing really bad will happen. If I wanted to blend my own oil, I expect I would use something like 25% Motul 5100 10W-40 and 75% Chevron Delo 15w-40, which would get me both the advantages of a lot of diester stock (5100 is pure diester) and the diesel additive package. In the winter, however, I would use 25% Motul and 75% Rotella synthetic, to get the superior low temperature performance. In fact, I just run Rotella synthetic in everything I own, year round: ST1300, DL650, Superhawk, Chevy Silverado, motorhome.
I'm also sometimes asked if it's ok to run non-Harley oils in Harley-Davidsons. In my opinion, yes. If you change your engine oil every 3,000 miles or so, you can run pretty much any decent oil. I ran Valvoline in my Harleys for 120,000 miles. For extended oil life or superior protection, I recommend AMSOil, Golden Spectro, Motul 5100 or Mobil-1. Harley recommends a 20w-50 oil, so Rotella or other synthetic diesel oils will not do. However, the 15w-40 diesel oils meet the same film strength standard as 20w-50 oil, and are just fine to run in your Harley. I'm told that the standard Harley oils are made by Sunoco, and the Syn-3 is made by Castrol. The Syn-3 Harley synthetic is primarily a Group III oil, and contains very little PAO or Diester stock. I don't consider the Syn-3 Harley oil either a particularly excellent oil, nor a competitively priced oil.
If you live in another country, you'll have to do a bit of research to decide on an oil. Generally, any oil certified for use in a late model Volkswagon or Mercedes turbo diesel is a good choice.

Seeing Double: Kawasaki Mean Streak and Suzuki Marauder 1600 Motorcycles

Though selling the same basic vehicle under two brand names has become common in the automotive world, the practice is a comparative rarity in the motorcycle market. A few Royal Enfield vertical twins were sold as Indians in the 1950s. In the late 1960s, Laverda 750 twins and models other from other makers were sold under the American Eagle brand in the U.S. Evel Knievel even rode one for a while. Korea's Hyosung motorcycles are imported here bearing the Alphasports brand and elswehere with other names. Aprilia has built a few models for BMW.
However, the first time that two major motorcycle brands shared models was when Kawasaki and Suzuki announced that they would do so a few years ago, beginning with versions of the same dirt bikes. The first street bike to arrive here under that agreement is the Kawasaki Mean Streak 1600/Suzuki Marauder 1600. A number of readers have inquired about the differences between the two bikes.
The short answer is that the differences are quite minor, and all of them are essentially cosmetic, not functional. Both bikes are built by Kawasaki and are a minor variation on the Vulcan 1500 Mean Streak, using the 1552cc "1600" engine instead of the 1470cc "1500" engine in last year's Meanie. The Mean Streak was one of our top picks in our 2002 Big Twin comparison, and trhe 1600 versions of the bike are still quite pleasing. The most noticeable difference between the Kawasaki 1500 Mean Streak and this 1600 drivetrain is that the new engine's clutch engages a bit more abruptly. The seats of our pants are debating if there is any more power down low in the 1552cc engine, but if so, it's not much.
The Suzuki gets a stylized visor and stretched shell.
The Kawasaki versions has a conventional headlight.
Both Kawasaki and Suzuki versions of the 1600 have the same frame, suspension (air-adjustable in back and an upside-down fork up front), brakes, gas tanks, and other major components. Even some items that we thought would be changed to create a visual separation -- front fender, seat, wheels, mirrors, etc. -- are the same on both bikes. The Marauder, which as the largest-displacement bike in Suzuki's cruiser line-up becomes its defacto cruiser flagship, also gets some features -- such as the headlight not turning on until the engine starts and automatic neutral-finding -- that were previously exclusive to Kawasakis. Even the suggested price is the same no matter which dealer you walk into: $10,999.
The Kawasaki has a full wrap-around fender and a low-profile taillight.
A tailsection added to the Marauder is the clearest difference between the two.
The list of differences between the two machines is short, and shown in the photos you see here. The biggest is probably the back end, where the Kawasaki retains the sweeping fender and low-profile headlight of past Mean Streaks and the Suzuki has a tailsection with a conventional taillight hung below it. Most people seem to prefer the Kawasaki treatment out back. The Marauder's more stylized headlight treatment drew more frequent appreciative noises than the Mean Streak's standard headlight bucket. Above the headlights, the instrument faces in the tachometer and speedometer are different, and there is a Suzuki logo set into the top triple clamp on the Marauder. The airbox covers are the final visual difference. Kawasaki uses a plain, snooth chrome finish on the Mean Streak's dual airboxes, while the Marauder airboxes have a ribbed insert. We suspect that some owners will mix and match these features to customize theior rides.
Each machine has a different treatment on the dual airboxes. The Meanie's is smooth and rounded.
The Marauder's dual airboxes have ribbed inserts and a slightly less rounded shape overall.
Since some dealers who carry both brands, it will be interesting to see which version proves more popular in showrooms. We also wonder if Suzuki, which has always priced aggressively, undercuts the Mean Streak's price in the future.
The Marauder gets its own tank badges.
Kawasaki adds a small tank graphic to the Mean Streak.
We expect the model-sharing to continue in the future. We anticipate that Suzuki will add a version of the Kawasaki Vulcan 2000 to its line, particularly when the touring version we expect for that bike arrives. There has been some speculation that Kawasaki might put a variation of Suzuki's 800 Volusia in its line too, since none of the Vulcan 800s have the Volusia's shaft drive, which is a popular feature.
Each bike gets its own instrument faces.
Suzuki adds a small badge to the top triple clamp.
We have gathered these two 1600s in preparation for our June-issue semi-big twins (V-twins over 1300cc but under 1700cc) comparison. We wanted to be sure that there was no reason include both in that test.
Motorcycle Facts

Most motorcyclists understand the effects of a "silent killer" which follows them every time they enjoy riding their bikes. Unfortunately, several people still believe the causes of hearing loss are due to how loud the bike sounds, and/or that it affects only the people who do not wear full shell helmets. This is true to a certain degree.Based on several research studies, the major contributor to hearing loss in the motorcycle industry remains the "silent killer" known as "wind noise." Generically termed as the amount of noise turbulence produced around the head while the rider is in motion. Its inherited consequences result in irreversible hearing loss damage over a period of time when adequate hearing protection is not worn.Similar to the shooting and aviation industries, if this issue is not addressed correctly from the beginning the amount of exposure to the inner ear is compounded every time the rider ventures out on his/her bike for hours at a time. Constant duration of harmful level noises gradually force the rider into becoming another statistic of the "silent killer."
To put this in perspective, according to OSHA's regulation of industrial noise exposure, an average worker surrounded by levels around 85-90dB for an eight hour day will not exceed the limits of exposure time within a 24 hour period of time.
However, when the sound levels exceed 100dB, your exposure time is reduced to two hours. When sound levels exceed 115dB, your exposure time is drastically reduced to 15 minutes. This puts riding a bike a whole other realm as "wind noise" at highway speeds can measure up to 103dB, or comparable to a running chainsaw. At these levels the rider is not only fatiguing physically from the excess noise exposure, but it also puts him into a position of needing a hearing aid later in life.Another common ailment of motorcycle riding is a condition known as "Temporary Threshold Shift," commonly referred to as TTS by audiologists and hearing healthcare professionals. TTS is caused by excessive noise exposure for a duration of time, which drops your actual acute hearing pattern to a lower level temporarily. Meaning, your hearing is less than what it was before the initial exposure. Continuous TTS exposure will result in permanent damage.
Everyone has experienced this phenomenon at one time or another, whether it is from going to loud dance halls, or concerts, or even work. Even some of today's movie theatres can cause this to happen, but this is a specific certainty for motorcyclists who disregard adequate hearing protection while riding their bike.
Riding position and style of windshield help in preventing "silent killers" ability to fully be experienced. But even the best helmets on today's marketplace provide little help when considering "wind noise" levels at normal highway speeds. Obviously, this factor is increased in half shell models as well as skullcaps, but the common helmets used in today's marketplace are designed to fit entirely over the head providing a snug fit. These types of helmets have the best attenuation value (reduction in noise) regardless of any airflow modifications done to the outside. But these helmets still produce wind noise readings of 110 to 116dB's, from 35mph to highway speeds. When reflecting back to the comparison chart, 116dB will only be suitable for 15 minutes of riding a day. Not a lot of time to enjoy your hobby.... Is it?
Although there are several versions of hearing protection devices on the market, a custom set of earmolds is still the best answer in suppressing sound. They provide excellent attenuation values and are comfortable to wear for extended periods of time. They can even be molded with high-grade transducers, which allow for stereo compatibility or communications. To find out more about these products search under our "Product Links" listed on the navigation bar.
We also suggest checking with your local state officials on the regulations of wearing hearing protection. Several states have motorcycle laws regarding earplug use.
There is no significant difference in wind noise level as a function of speed, no matter what the helmet brand or model (all being full coverage).
Neither the riding position nor the brand or style of motorcycle make significant difference in noise level.
Padding inside the helmet, open or closed vents, or added weather stripping on the helmet to alter flow patterns, does not significantly alter the noise level in a helmet.
Stopped at a stop light at a busy intersection with your helmet visor closed produces a sound level of 80-90dB SPL. (Lawn mower, loud restaurant levels)
When not wearing a helmet, the wind noise at highway speed is nearly 10 times greater than when wearing a full coverage helmet.
Below 30mph, machine, exhaust and environmental noises are heard. Once speeds exceed approximately 30mph, wind noise dominates completely.
Some helmets resonate at approximately 500Hz, and actually enhance wind noise.
Legal speeds of 65mph can produce wind noise levels at 103dB SPL, (chainsaw, pneumatic drill). This noise is loud enough to cause TTS in your hearing, tinnitus and permanent ear damage